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Sushi Rice

Published June 2019

How we tested

Often sold in the United States as Calrose rice, this rice variety features short, squat grains and has a distinct stickiness when cooked. It gets this stickiness from a relatively high amount of a starch component called amylopectin, which gelatinizes during cooking and results in a tender, creamy texture with a subtle chewiness. 

Sushi rice traces its origins back to northeast Asia (particularly Japan), but it is now grown extensively in the United States. California, where 95 percent of the rice grown is sushi‑style rice, ranks second to Arkansas (which grows mostly long-grain rice) in U.S. rice production. According to the California Rice Commission, nearly every piece of sushi eaten in the United States is made with California-grown rice. But it’s not used only in sushi—this type of rice is a staple in many Asian and Asian American homes and is featured in dishes such as bibimbap, onigiri, and gimbap.

For this tasting, we looked specifically for rice labeled sushi, Calrose, or Japanese-style (these terms are often used interchangeably). We found eight nationally available products, ranging in price from about $0.05 per ounce to about $0.25 per ounce. We cooked the rice two ways—in rice cookers using a standardized rice-to-water ratio and on the stovetop according to their package instructions—and sampled them all plain.

No Bad Rice, Just Bad Instructions

Ultimately, we liked all the rice we cooked in the rice cookers. They were perfectly chewy and tender with a pleasant hint of stickiness. That said, some products fared poorly when cooked on the stovetop according to their package instructions. Some packages called for soaking the rice before cooking (a traditional method for preparing Japanese sushi rice), but we generally preferred the slightly firmer texture of unsoaked rice. Other packages called for too much water in proportion to the amount of uncooked rice, so the cooked rice emerged from the pot wet and bland. Since we wanted to truly home in on the quality of the rice and not the instructions, we decided not to factor the results from the stovetop rice tasting into our final rankings. Instead, we based our ratings solely on the results of the rice cooker tasting. We therefore strongly recommend that you ignore the package instructions when cooking sushi rice and instead use either a rice cooker or the recipe we developed for cooking this type of rice on the stovetop.

A Millimeter Makes a Difference

Like Arborio rice, which is used to make risotto, sushi rice has confusingly been classified as both a short- and medium-grain rice by different sources (see “Are Arborio Rice and Sushi Rice Interchangeable?”). We did notice that grain size varied a lot: Some products were oval, almost round, while others didn’t look that different from long-grain rice. The Federal Grain Inspection Service classifies raw rice with a 2:1 to 2.9:1 length-to-width ratio as medium-grain and rice with a 1.9:1 or lower length‑to‑width ratio as short‑grain. To zoom in on length-to-width ratio, we used calipers to measure 20 grains from multiple packages of each brand of rice and averaged the results. The length-to-width ratios of the products in our lineup ranged from 1.6 to 1 to 2.2 to 1, meaning the brands were a mix of short- and medium‑grain rices. Our tasters had a slight preference for products that featured shorter grains when cooked, since they had a distinct round shape that set them apart from long-grain rice. Our favorite rice had the shortest grains in the lineup, with a 1.6:1 length-to-width ratio. 

Ya-Jane Wang, professor of carbohydrate chemistry at the University of Arkansas, told us that the differences in grain length and shape can be attributed to farmers growing different genetic strains of japonica rice (Oryza sativa ssp. japonica). Manufacturers don’t specify this kind of information on their packaging, and they wouldn’t give us any specifics when we contacted them. Wang said that both Calrose, a medium-grain variety of japonica rice, and some short-grain japonica rice varieties are sold as sushi rice, which is why we saw different textures and sizes of grains among products. Kent McKenzie, director of the California Rice Experiment Station, also confirmed that the term Calrose now encompasses many California-grown medium-grain varieties that are descendants of the original Calrose variety released in 1948. “These great-grandchildren have very similar starch, cooking, processing, and chemical properties to Calrose, but some subtle differences exist,” McKenzie said. 

Younger Rice Is More Fragrant and Cooks Up Soft and Tender

Our tasters also noted differences in stickiness among the products, preferring rices that were sticky and starchy to those that were dry. Diane Beckles, associate professor at the University of California, Davis, told us that there are other key variables that can influence the cooked texture of rice. While genetics do play a big role in the amount and type of starch in rice, Beckles said that growing conditions and storage can also change the percentage of amylopectin, the starch component responsible for stickiness in rice. Newly harvested rice is soft and tender and stickier when cooked because it has higher amounts of amylopectin. By contrast, older rice is drier when cooked because rice loses moisture and its starch breaks down during long storage. Storage time can also impact the perceived aromas in rice, Beckles said. While aroma isn’t as prominent in sushi rice varieties as it is in other rice varieties such as basmati or jasmine, our tasters still noticed pleasant “floral,” “buttery,” and “toasted” notes in our top-rated rices. Experts told us that the primary compound responsible for these aromas in rice—2-acetyl-1-pyrroline—is at its peak when the rice is first harvested and wanes as the rice is stored unless the conditions are strictly controlled (such techniques are used to enhance 2-acetyl-1-pyrroline levels in rices such as basmati). 

The Best Sushi Rice: Lundberg Family Farms Organic California Sushi Rice

In the end, our tasters named Lundberg Family Farms Organic California Sushi Rice as our favorite sushi rice. This company also makes our favorite long-grain rice. Tasters loved this product’s “small,” “sticky” grains as well as its “floral aroma.” One note of caution: The package instructions call for soaking the rice and cooking it in a large amount of water. We found the rice produced by this cooking method to be not as tender and sticky as we liked. Instead, we recommend cooking it in a rice cooker or according to our stovetop recipe.


Methodology

Twenty-one America’s Test Kitchen staffers sampled eight sushi rice products two ways: rinsed and cooked in a rice cooker using standardized rice-to-water ratios and cooked on the stovetop according to package instructions. Ultimately, only the results from the rice cooker tasting were factored into our final rankings, since that test provided the most standardized comparison for tasters. All the rice we tasted was grown in California. We purchased all the products in Boston-area supermarkets, and the prices listed are what we paid. We used calipers to measure the length of 20 rice granules from multiple packages of each brand and averaged the results to get the length-to-width ratio of the grains. Products appear below in order of preference.

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The Results

Winner
Recommended

Skippy Peanut Butter

In a contest that hinged on texture, tasters thought this "smooth, "creamy" sample was "swell" and gave it top honors, both plain and baked into cookies. Its rave reviews even compensated for a slightly "weak" nut flavor that didn't come through as well as that of other brands in the pungent satay sauce.

$2.39 for 16.3-oz. jar (15 cents per oz.)*
Recommended

Jif Natural Peanut Butter Spread

The big favorite in satay sauce, this peanut butter's "dark, roasted flavor"—helped by the addition of molasses—stood out particularly well against the other heady ingredients, and it made cookies with "nice sweet-salty balance." Plus, as the top-rated palm oil-based sample, it was "creamy," "thick," and better emulsified than other "natural" contenders.

$2.29 for 18-oz. jar (13 cents per oz.)*

Reese's Peanut Butter

This is what peanut butter should be like, " declared one happy taster, noting specifically this product's "good," "thick" texture and "powerful peanut flavor." In satay sauce, however, some tasters felt that heavier body made for a "pasty" end result.

$2.59 for 18-oz. jar (14 cents per oz.)*

Skippy Natural Peanut Butter Spread

The only other palm oil-based peanut butter to make the "recommended" cut, this contender had a "looser" texture than its winning sibling but still won fans for being "super-smooth." Tasters thought it made an especially "well-balanced," "complex" peanut sauce.

$2.39 for 15-oz. jar (16 cents per oz.)*
Recommended with Reservations

Peanut Butter & Co. No-Stir Natural Smooth Operator

Though it says "no-stir" on the label, this "stiff" palm-oil enriched peanut butter was "weeping oil" and came across as "greasy" to some tasters. However, it turned out a respectable batch of cookies—"chewy in the center, crisp and short at the edge"—and made "perfectly good" satay sauce.

$4.49 for 18-oz. jar (25 cents per oz.)*

Maranatha Organic No Stir Peanut Butter

On the one hand, this organic peanut butter produced cookies that were "soft and sturdy" yet "moist," with "knockout peanut flavor." On the other hand, eating it straight from the jar was nearly impossible; its "loose," "liquid-y," and "dribbly" consistency had one taster wonder if it was "peanut soup."

$5.69 for 16-oz. jar (36 cents per oz.)*
Not Recommended

Smart Balance All Natural Rich Roast Peanut Butter

Besides being unpalatably "tacky" and "sludgy," this "natural" peanut butter suffered from an awful "fishy" flavor with a "weird acidic aftertaste" that tasters noted in all three applications. Our best guess as to the culprit? The inclusion of flax seed oil, an unsaturated fat that's highly susceptible to rancidity.

$3.59 for 16-oz. jar (22 cents per oz.)*

Smucker's Natural Peanut Butter

With its only additive a negligible amount of salt, the only truly natural peanut butter in the lineup elicited comments ranging from mild dissatisfaction ("needs enhancement with salt and sugar") to outright disgust ("slithery," "chalky," "inedible"). Cookies were "dry and crumbly" with a "hockey puck" texture, and the satay sauce was "stiff," "gritty," and "gloopy."

$2.69 for 16-oz. jar (17 cents per oz.)*