The German pancake, sometimes called a Dutch baby, is a study in contrasts: The edge of the skillet-size breakfast specialty puffs dramatically to form a tall, crispy rim with a texture similar to that of a popover while the base remains flat, custardy, and tender, like a thick crêpe. Our German Pancake achieves its dramatic appearance and contrasting textures thanks to a few test kitchen tricks. First, we mixed up a simple batter containing just the right amounts of eggs, flour, and milk to produce a pancake with crispy yet tender edges and a custardy center. To produce a tall, puffy rim and an even, substantial center, we started the pancake in a cold oven and then turned the oven to 375 degrees. This allowed the center of the pancake to begin to set up before the rim got hot enough to puff up substantially. Finally, we put fruit and other ingredients on as a topping rather than baking them into the pancake. Without fruit to weigh things down, the pancake puffed dramatically and its texture remained delicate and uniform.

Pancakes are one of the simplest dishes you can make, whether they’re for breakfast, dinner, or a snack. Mix together a handful of pantry ingredients like flour, sugar, baking powder, eggs, butter, and buttermilk; cook them for a few minutes in a skillet; and violà—you’ve got a fluffy full stack! Well, not so fast. To really make the best pancakes, there are a few things you need to know besides how to dump and mix. Here are 5 things we’ve learned from developing dozens of foolproof pancake recipes in the test kitchen."

When it comes to whole fish, the grill infuses it with smoky flavor, while the intense heat crisps the skin beautifully, lending contrast to the moist flesh beneath. And because the skin acts as a buffer during cooking, it helps ensure that the interior cooks through gently. So why don’t more people grill whole fish? One reason might be that the idea of cleaning and scaling it sounds like a chore; plus, they need to be boned at the table or before serving. But there’s an easy answer to those obstacles: Choose whole trout. Not only are whole trout almost always sold cleaned and scaled, but their backbones and pinbones are also removed. And they’re small, weighing about 10 ounces each, so one fish can serve one person—no need to fuss with portioning. For our recipe, we found that we needed to focus on making sure the fish released from the grill before the interior overcooked. By applying a mixture of honey and mayonnaise to its exterior, we were able to get the trout to brown more quickly. And when its skin was charred and crisp, it naturally released from the grill, allowing us to cook the fish just until it was cooked through.

An organized, tidy food prep station creates a foundation for safe, clean, and successful cooking. In our test kitchen, “setting up your board” means setting up your cooking station before you begin to prep and cook. Setting up your board at home is just as important.