How we tested
In the test kitchen, we often refrigerate stocks overnight so we can skim off the hardened fat the next morning. But if you’re making gravy or soup on a shorter timetable, you can use a fat separator to defat stocks and pan juices almost immediately. To find a favorite, we tested six 4-cup models (including our prior winner from Trudeau) priced from $11.99 to $33.95, using them to strain aromatics and separate fat from both 2-quart and 1-cup volumes of stock.
There are two types of separators—pitchers and bottom-drainers; we tested four of the former and two of the latter. With both types, you pour your stock or sauce into the separator through a built-in strainer at the top and wait a few minutes for the fat to rise to the top of the liquid. If you’re using a pitcher, you then pour off the liquid from a spout set into the base. If you’re using a bottom-drainer, you pull a lever set in the handle to release a plug at the bottom of the separator, allowing the liquid to drain out. Either way, the fat is left behind in the separator.
In our testing, we found that the two bottom-drainers we tested were generally more efficient than the pitchers at decanting both large and small volumes of liquid while keeping fat out. With the pitchers, some fat usually entered their pour spouts from the get-go, and as the liquid drained down to the last ¼ cup, it was harder to prevent fat from exiting, too. Bottom-drainers didn’t have this problem; because the fat stayed on top of the liquid, all we had to do was keep an eye on it and stop releasing the liquid when the fat got close to the bottom of the canister.
Defatting ability aside, certain models were just easier to use. Large-mouthed strainers provided us with bigger targets to hit when pouring stock and mirepoix from an unwieldy roasting pan. Strainers with sides taller than 1 inch acted as splash guards and helped keep solids in. And strainers with lots of little holes allowed stock to drain quickly into the separators without letting through any small aromatics. In addition, we preferred separators with large handles that were comfortable for testers of all hand sizes to grip.
A previous testing of fat separators showed us that a 4-cup capacity was the best size, giving users the flexibility to defat both large and small volumes of stock. Despite their manufacturers’ claims, however, several of the models we tested couldn’t actually hold 4 cups of liquid without overflowing. Two of the models had inaccurate measurement lines, and others had measurement lines that were too light to read. Few of the separators were easy to clean by hand; we needed fine bottle brushes to clean the pitchers’ pour spouts, and the release valve of one bottom-drainer tended to collect grease. In theory, all of the separators are dishwasher-safe, though after nine cycles, certain models warped, loosened, or cracked or their measurement lines faded slightly.
Our winner, the bottom-draining Cuisipro Fat Separator ($33.95), consistently produced the greatest volumes of defatted stock. It had a big, comfortable handle and a wide, small-holed, tall-sided strainer that was easy to pour into. It held 4 cups of liquid comfortably and had accurate—though slightly hard-to-read—measurements. And with a detachable canister, it was the easiest separator to clean by hand. Our Best Buy, the Trudeau Gravy Separator, performed almost as well. And at $16.99, it’s half the price of our winner.
We tested six 4-cup fat separators made of glass or plastic, ranging in price from $11.99 to $33.95. We tested the separators’ ability to separate fat from large (2 quarts) and small (1 cup) volumes of chicken stock, strain out solids, and withstand repeated use. We also had testers of different hand sizes use and rank them. Separators were rated on their ability to defat liquid and on how easy it was to fill, strain, and pour from them. In addition, we evaluated ease of cleanup, durability, and the accuracy of their stated capacity and measurements. All models were purchased online and are ranked in order of preference.
Fat Separation: We gave more points to models that separated the greatest volume of liquid while minimizing the fat that dripped through.
Ease of Use: We awarded more points to separators that were easy to fill, had legible measurement lines, did a good job of straining, and poured out stock neatly. We also gave more points to separators with big, comfortable handles.
Cleanup and Durability: We preferred separators that were easy to clean by hand and that did not crack, warp, or fade in the dishwasher.
Accuracy: We deducted points from separators that were smaller than their stated 4-cup capacity or that had inaccurate volume measurement lines.
Cuisipro Fat Separator
With a large, tall-sided, highly perforated strainer and a well-controlled release valve, this bottom-draining model defatted the most stock in every test. And its detachable canister made it the easiest separator to clean by hand. It did have hard-to-read measurement lines, and superficial cracks developed around the drainage hole after 10 washes and 150 times opening and closing it, though it remained leakproof.
Trudeau Gravy Separator
This low-riding pitcher, our former favorite, had the largest strainer, providing plenty of room to pour stock into it. And it was almost as good as our winner at defatting large and small volumes of stock. A few minor problems: The measurement lines were hard to read, its handle was small, and the strainer warped slightly after a few washes (but was still fully functional).
OXO 4-Cup Fat Separator
This pitcher uses a removable (and easy to lose) silicone plug to create air pressure that prevents fat from entering the spout from the bottom; this feature works well with larger volumes but not when separating smaller amounts of liquid. Still, its handle was comfortable, it held 4 cups of stock, and its red measurement lines were easy to read. But while its strainer was large and tall-sided, its holes were so big that some peppercorns filtered through.
Amco Easy Release Grease Separator
This bottom-draining model yielded nearly fat-free stock. But its strainer was small and short-sided and lacked holes in the center, causing stock to splash back at users. And its handle was cramped by a lever that released the drainage plug unexpectedly and allowed too much liquid out too quickly. Worse, it held just 3.5 cups and had measurement markings that were off by a tablespoon.
Catamount 4-Cup Fat Separator
This tiny-handled watering-can-style pitcher was awkward to use, featuring a narrow, low-riding pour spout that was impossible to clean and spilled more fatty liquid than it decanted. A mesh strainer withheld all aromatics but was the tiniest in our lineup, making it hard to pour into. And while its measurement lines were easy to read and accurate, it didn’t quite hold 4 cups of liquid.
Küchenprofi Gravy Separator
This pitcher’s strainer was small and had too few perforations, taking forever to drain stock into the separator. Its narrow, low pour spout spilled fatty juices everywhere, and its thin handle was unpleasant to hold. It held just over 3 cups and had measurement lines that were off by as much as 1/2 cup—not that you could read them, since they became nearly invisible after 10 washes.