Gougères

Published December 14, 2006.

Why this recipe works:

When developing our gougères recipe, we discovered that small variations in oven temperature led to wildly different results in both color and texture. We needed a combination method of 425 degrees for 15 minutes and 375 degrees for another 10 minutes to yield perfect initial results. Then, to… read more

When developing our gougères recipe, we discovered that small variations in oven temperature led to wildly different results in both color and texture. We needed a combination method of 425 degrees for 15 minutes and 375 degrees for another 10 minutes to yield perfect initial results. Then, to make our puffs crisp while keeping the interior a little softer, we pierced each puff with a paring knife and returned them to the cooling oven for 10 minutes.

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Makes 15 2-inch puffs

If you prefer smaller gougères, simply use a smaller tip on the piping bag. Pay close attention as they bake because smaller puffs may require a shorter baking time. Gougères are best served warm, although they can be made in advance and reheated as needed.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. 1. Beat eggs and egg white in measuring cup or small bowl; you should have 1/2 cup (discard excess). Set aside.

    2. Bring water, butter, milk, and salt to boil in small saucepan over medium heat, stirring once or twice (see illustration 1). When mixture reaches full boil (butter should be fully melted), immediately remove saucepan from heat and stir in flour with heatproof spatula or wooden spoon until combined and mixture clears sides of pan. Return saucepan to low heat and cook, stirring constantly, using a smearing motion (illustration 2), until mixture is slightly shiny, looks like wet sand, and tiny beads of fat appear on bottom of saucepan, about 3 minutes (paste should register 175 to 180 degrees on instant-read thermometer).

    3. Immediately transfer mixture to food processor and process with feed tube open for 10 seconds to cool slightly. With machine running, gradually add eggs in a steady stream (illustration 3). When all eggs have been added, scrape down sides of bowl and add Gruyère and cayenne to food processor. Process for 30 seconds until a smooth, thick, sticky paste forms. (If not using immediately, transfer paste to medium bowl, press sheet of plastic wrap that has been sprayed lightly with nonstick cooking spray directly on surface, and store at room temperature for up to 2 hours.)

    4. Adjust oven rack to middle position and heat oven to 425 degrees. Spray large baking sheet with nonstick cooking spray and line with parchment paper; set sheet aside.

    5. Fold down top 3 or 4 inches of large pastry bag fitted with 1/2-inch plain tip to form cuff. Following illustrations 4 through 6, hold bag open with one hand in cuff and fill bag with paste. Unfold cuff, place bag on work surface, and, using your hands, push paste toward tip of pastry bag. Twist top of bag and pipe paste onto prepared baking sheet into 16 evenly spaced 2-inch mounds. Use back of teaspoon dipped in bowl of cold water to even out shape and smooth surface of piped mounds.

    6. Bake 15 minutes (do not open oven door), then reduce oven temperature to 375 degrees and continue to bake until golden brown and fairly firm, 12 to 14 minutes longer. Remove baking sheet from oven. With paring knife, cut 3/4-inch slit into side of each puff to release steam; return to oven, turn off oven, and prop oven door open with handle of wooden spoon. After 10 minutes, transfer puffs to wire rack. Serve warm. (Gougères can be cooled completely and stored at room temperature for up to 24 hours or frozen in zipper-lock plastic bag for up to 1 month. Before serving, crisp room-temperature gougères in 300-degree oven for 5 to 8 minutes; crisp frozen gougères for 8 to 10 minutes.)

Step-by-Step

Making Gougères

1. Occasionally stir butter mixture until it comes to full boil. Remove pan from heat.

2. Add flour, return pan to low heat, and cook paste for 3 minutes, stirring constantly and using smearing motion.

3. With feed tube open, process paste for 10 seconds, then add eggs in steady stream.

4. Fill pastry bag with paste, push paste to bottom of bag using your hands, and twist top of bag to seal.

5. Holding tip 1/2 inch above prepared baking sheet, pipe 1 1/2-inch mounds.

6. Use back of teaspoon dipped in cold water to even out shape and smooth surface of piped mounds.

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