Crabmeat

Published May 1, 2012. From Cook's Illustrated.

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If you can't find fresh crabmeat, don't despair. There are several packaged options that are almost as good.

Overview:

Like much of the ocean’s bounty, fresh-off-the-boat crabmeat is best—sweet and tender with a touch of salinity. Most of the crabmeat eaten in this country, however, isn’t fresh, but prepackaged Blue Swimming Crab from the South Pacific. Packaged crabmeat often doesn’t cost much less than freshly shucked meat, and even the cheapest brands are shockingly expensive compared with other processed seafood like tuna or salmon—anywhere from $0.90 to almost $2.00 per ounce. The advantage is that, unlike fresh crabmeat, the packaged kind (which comes both refrigerated and canned) is readily available in most supermarkets.

To find a worthy substitute for fresh crabmeat, we sampled five nationally available brands of crabmeat both straight from the package and in our recipe for crab cakes. We ruled out finer, flakier backfin meat (made from pieces that fall apart during extraction from the shell) from the start, choosing to test only more desirable lump and jumbo lump meat.

In both the straight tasting and our crab cakes, we strongly… read more

Like much of the ocean’s bounty, fresh-off-the-boat crabmeat is best—sweet and tender with a touch of salinity. Most of the crabmeat eaten in this country, however, isn’t fresh, but prepackaged Blue Swimming Crab from the South Pacific. Packaged crabmeat often doesn’t cost much less than freshly shucked meat, and even the cheapest brands are shockingly expensive compared with other processed seafood like tuna or salmon—anywhere from $0.90 to almost $2.00 per ounce. The advantage is that, unlike fresh crabmeat, the packaged kind (which comes both refrigerated and canned) is readily available in most supermarkets.

To find a worthy substitute for fresh crabmeat, we sampled five nationally available brands of crabmeat both straight from the package and in our recipe for crab cakes. We ruled out finer, flakier backfin meat (made from pieces that fall apart during extraction from the shell) from the start, choosing to test only more desirable lump and jumbo lump meat.

In both the straight tasting and our crab cakes, we strongly preferred the two refrigerated products—and for good reason. To be shelf-stable, most canned crabmeat is typically pressure-heated at high temperatures (220 to 250 degrees), but the trade-off is drier, chewier meat (our tasters described some of the canned brands as “fibrous” and “cardboard-y”). Manufacturers of canned crabmeat also often add additives such as citric acid to prevent discoloration or offset moisture loss during heat processing, but some don’t do the meat any favors; we found products with added citric acid, like our least two least favorite brands, mushy and spongy. Refrigerated crabmeat, on the other hand, is typically processed at lower temperatures (182 to 190 degrees) and is considerably juicier and more tender—and also pricier. Our favorite boasts “sweet,” “meaty,” and “plump” pieces that most closely resemble fresh crabmeat—a product we think is worth the $1.69-per-ounce splurge every now and then. Our canned Best Buy, processed at a lower temperature than most other shelf-stable products (220 degrees), is an acceptable, slightly more economical ($1.38 per ounce) alternative.

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  • Product Tested

    Price*

  • Prices are subject to change.
  • Recommended - Winner

    Phillips Premium Crab Jumbo

    Our top-rated refrigerated brand boasted “moist,” “plump,” “meaty chunks” that tasters likened to fresh crab.

    $26.99 for 16 ounces ($1.69 per ounce)

  • Recommended

    Blue Star Blue Swimming Crabmeat Lump Meat

    This runner-up refrigerated brand earned praise for a pleasant “ocean” taste that was “convincingly fresh” with “definite crab flavor.” Its “flaky,” “shredded” texture turned off a few tasters, who preferred the jumbo lump chunks of our winner, but most didn’t mind: “Small pieces of crab, but it packs a punch.”

    $8.99 for 6 ounces ($1.50 per ounce)

  • Recommended

    Miller’s Select Lump Crab Meat

    We were pleased to find a shelf-stable canned brand that we could recommend; tasters praised its “high-quality,” “light and tasty” flavor and “tender,” distinct chunks of meat.

    $9 for 6.5 ounces ($1.38 per ounce)

  • Not Recommended

    Bumble Bee Fancy Lump Crabmeat

    Tasters complained that this crabmeat tasted like anything but crab, with a “dull” flavor that they likened to “Elmer’s Glue,” and “frozen fish sticks.” Its texture was all wrong, too: “Mealy,” “chalky, fibrous and dry.” 

    $5.79 for 6 ounces ($0.97 per ounce)

  • Not Recommended

    Crown Prince Natural Fancy White-Lump Crab Meat

    Don’t bother with this bottom-ranking canned crabmeat. Tasters compared its taste to “dried squid,” and “old fish tank water” and its texture to “dry cotton” and “sawdust.”

    $5.41 for 6 ounces ($0.90 per ounce)

*PRICES SUBJECT TO CHANGE
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