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Does Butter Make It Better?

By Cook's Illustrated Published January 2009

Most omelets tend to be slightly rubbery. Could we prevent the problem by adding cold butter to the eggs before cooking, as one novel recipe we found suggested?


We cracked three eggs into each of two bowls and beat each batch until blended. We then stirred 1 tablespoon cold diced butter into one batch.


The eggs with butter cooked into a markedly creamier omelet than the eggs without butter and tasted rich, not greasy.


As eggs cook, the proteins in the whites form tight, cross-linked bonds that turn their texture dense and rubbery. Adding butter to the mix coats the proteins with fat, inhibiting them from forming bonds so the eggs stay soft and creamy. Frozen butter works even better because it doesn’t melt as quickly and disperses more evenly throughout the egg.