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Grill Pans

Published May 2021

How we tested

We tested enameled or plain cast-iron grill pans in a range of sizes and shapes. The best grill pans were roomy, had low sides that made it easy to maneuver a spatula under food, and featured tall ridges that made distinct grill marks. They were made from traditional cast iron that arrived preseasoned, so they released food easily from the beginning and got even better over time. Our winner, the Lodge Chef Collection 11 Inch Cast Iron Square Grill Pan, is affordable at about $36. Our runner-up, the Borough Furnace Grill Pan Braising Lid, is significantly more expensive (about $110), but it’s beautiful and handmade. 

What You Need to Know

Grill pans are skillets customized with ridges across the cooking surface to mimic the cooking grates of a grill. When we compared burgers, panini, and salmon made in ordinary skillets with the same foods made in grill pans, the foods made in the ordinary skillets were less visually appealing and lacked the flavorful char marks produced by the grill pans. We use grill pans to make pressed sandwiches and to grill meats and vegetables. The pan’s hot ridges sear grill marks onto the surfaces of food while radiant heat cooks the food. Fat drains away from the food to the channels between the ridges.

Grill pans can be made from different materials, including heavy cast iron (enameled or plain) or thinner, lighter sheets of nonstick aluminum or steel (and sometimes nonstick cast aluminum). From previous testing, we know that we prefer cast-iron models for their superior heat retention and taller, more distinct ridges that make better grill marks. Thinner nonstick versions are stamped out of a sheet of metal, so the ridge shapes have to be low and rounded to keep the metal from tearing as it’s stamped. As a result, their grill marks—the whole point of this kind of pan—are wimpy.

What to Look For

  • Uncoated cast iron: The surface of a plain, uncoated—rather than enameled—cast-iron grill pan will only become better and more naturally nonstick as you use it. While these pans arrive preseasoned by their manufacturers (with baked-on vegetable oil), that initial patina will keep improving every time you cook, gradually adding to the polymerized oil that’s bonded to the cast iron, which is called seasoning. Seasoning allows foods to release effortlessly from the pan and makes the pan easier to clean. Who doesn’t love a product that improves if you use it for years and years?
  • Short walls: Short walls allow spatulas to slide under food at low, controlled angles, so foods release intact.
  • Tall, substantial ridges: The taller the ridges, the more deeply they mark food. The ridges on our highest-ranked pan, which were more than twice as tall as the ridges on one of our lowest-ranked pans, made the most impressive crisp, bold grill marks. Pans with tall ridges also elevated food well above any drippings. As for shape, we loved the look of thick, squared-off ridges, but pans with slightly rounder ridges did well as long as they were also wide and tall.
  • Well-spaced ridges: We preferred pans with ridges that were at least fingertip-width apart, because we could get in and scrub between them more easily, by hand or with a brush. More space meant fewer nooks to trap food, making cleanup easier.
  • Roomy surface: With plenty of space, you can cook in fewer batches. Fewer batches means less mess and smoke, because the residue of previous batches can burn. 
  • Smoother seasoning/cooking surface: Right out of the box, we found some pans’ surfaces extremely rough; the surfaces stuck to food and ripped lint from both paper towels and cloth dish towels when we wiped them. While all the plain cast-iron pans showed improvement as seasoning started to build up with a few weeks of use, we preferred pans that arrived expertly preseasoned and/or machine-sanded to smoothness. Right from the start, they were easier to cook in and clean.
  • Moderate weight: Our favorites were around 6½ to 7 pounds, balancing heat retention with maneuverability.
  • Two looped handles: Pans with two looped handles are easy to lift and store. With no extended skillet-style handle, these models have a more compact profile for storage (or the stovetop), and their weight feels more evenly balanced when you need to lift them. 

What to Avoid

  • Nonstick-coated aluminum or steel: While they’re easy to clean, these pans aren’t durable and don’t improve with time and lots of use like cast iron does. You’ll need to replace these pans. 
  • Enameled cast iron: OK, maybe “avoid” is kind of strong, but enameled cast iron will never become more nonstick like plain cast iron, and it takes a little pampering to maintain over time. Enamel was not particularly good at releasing food (during testing, an enameled pan caused one of the worst cases of fish sticking and breaking up) compared with well-preseasoned uncoated cast-iron versions. The nonstick ability of enamel won’t improve over time, since the enamel prevents the pan from acquiring more than a very light seasoning patina. In fact, rough treatment can damage the enamel’s smooth surface, potentially making the pan more sticky (rather than less sticky) in years to come. 
  • Tall walls: In pans with tall walls, spatulas have to approach food at a steep, awkward angle, making it harder to release the food and lift it intact, especially when working with delicate foods such as fish. (The pan’s going to splatter either way, so make it easy on yourself with low walls.)
  • Low, stumpy ridges and/or ridges with skinny tops: Grill marks can come out wimpy, uneven, and thin rather than bold, distinct, and crisp. Some pans only made strong marks if we were using a grill press. On pans with lower ridges, the food isn’t elevated over any rendered fat, so the second side often lacks any grill marks and comes out greasier. 
  • Tightly spaced ridges: Pans without enough space between their ridges trap food and make cleanup a nightmare.
  • Small cooking surface: Some pans have only a small ridged section in the middle of the cooking surface, limiting available grilling space. Others are small all over, so you have to cook in multiple batches, creating more opportunity for residue in the pan to scorch and smoke.
  • Heavy or light pans: Heavy, clunky pans are a bear to lift and use, while overly lightweight ones can easily overheat and scorch food. 
  • Single handles: Grill pans shaped like skillets with a single long handle felt more off-balance and less compact to store than dual-handled models. 


  • Grill white sandwich bread slices in each pan, using a grill press (if not included with the pan); evaluate the grill marks
  • Grill panini, four 4-ounce burgers, and Glazed Salmon in each pan
  • Clean the pans by hand after each test
  • Evaluate the condition of the pans at the conclusion of testing

Rating Criteria 

Performance: We evaluated the flavor, texture, and appearance of the food made in each pan. 

Ease of Use: We considered how easy it was to handle, maneuver, and cook in each pan.

Cleanup: We evaluated how difficult it was to clean the pans and noted their conditions at the conclusion of testing.

The Results


Design Trifecta 360 Knife Block

Admittedly expensive, this handsome block certainly seemed to live up to its billing as “the last knife block you ever have to buy.” The heaviest model in our testing, this block was ultrastable, and its durable bamboo exterior was a breeze to clean. Well-placed medium-strength magnets made it easy to attach all our knives, and a rotating base gave us quick access to them. One tiny quibble: The blade of our 12-inch slicing knife stuck out a little.


Schmidt Brothers Downtown Block

This roomy block completely sheathed our entire winning knife set using just one of its two sides—and quite securely, thanks to long, medium-strength magnet bars. Heavy, with a grippy base, this block was very stable. An acrylic guard made this model extra-safe but also made it a little trickier to insert knives and to clean; the wood block itself showed some minor cosmetic scratching during use.


Schmidt Brothers Midtown Block

This smaller version of the Downtown Block secured all our knives nicely, though the blade of the slicing knife stuck out a bit. With a base lined with grippy material, this block was very stable. An acrylic guard afforded extra protection against contact with blades but made it a little harder to insert knives and to clean; the wood itself got a little scratched during use.

Recommended with Reservations

Swissmar Bamboo Magnetic Knife Block

This small, scratch-resistant model had a stable, rubber-lined base and could hold all our knives, though the blade of the 12-inch slicing knife stuck out a bit. But inch-long gaps between its small magnets made coverage uneven and forced us to find the magnetic hot spots in order to secure the knives. Its acrylic guard made it safer to use but harder to insert knives and to clean.

Not Recommended

Messermeister Walnut Magnet Block

This handsome block was done in by its shape—a tippy, top-heavy quarter-circle that wasn’t tall or broad enough to keep the blades of three knives from poking out. It lacked a nonslip base, and its extra-strong magnets made it unnerving to attach or remove our heavy cleaver. Finally, it got a bit scratched after extensive use.


Epicurean Standing Knife Rack 12"

This magnetic block sheathed all our knives completely, though with a bit of crowding. But it was hard to insert each knife without hitting the block’s decorative slats on way down, and because the block was light and narrow, it wobbled when bumped. Worse, we couldn’t take it apart, so splatters that hit the interior were there to stay. Additionally, the outside stained easily, and when we wiped it down, the unit smelled like wet dog.


Kapoosh Rondelle Knife Block

This model stabilized knives with a mass of stiff, spaghetti-like bristles that shed and nicked easily after extensive use, covering our knives with plastic debris. While all our knives fit securely, several of the blades stuck out, making this unit feel less safe overall. Finally, though the bristles could be removed and cleaned in the dishwasher, their nooks and crannies made this block hard to wash by hand.


Kuhn Rikon Vision Knife Block, Clear

This plastic block required us to aim each knife into the folds of an accordion-pleated insert that was removable for easy cleaning but got nicked easily with repeated use. Because we could only insert the knives vertically, longer knife blades stuck out; a cleaver was too wide to fit. The lightest model in our lineup, this block was dangerously top-heavy when loaded with knives.