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Ninja Foodi

Published June 2019

How we tested

The Ninja Foodi bills itself as a “pressure cooker that crisps.” It’s designed to do anything a multicooker or an air fryer can do: steam, slow-cook, sear, sauté, dehydrate, bake, roast, broil, air-fry, and pressure-cook food. Since we love both our winning multicooker, the Zavor LUX LCD 8 QT Multicooker, and our winning air fryer, the Philips TurboStar Airfryer, Avance Digital, we were curious to see if the Ninja Foodi, which costs about $250, lived up to its claims of combining the functions of both appliances.

The Foodi As a Pressure Cooker

The Foodi’s shape and design are unique. Resembling a squat toy rocket ship, the machine is a little taller, wider, and heavier than our favorite multicooker and air fryer (the Foodi weighs more than 20 pounds, whereas our favorite multicooker and air fryer each weigh about 13 pounds). The Foodi comes with a nonstick insert for pressure cooking and slow cooking and a removable basket for air frying. It is also equipped with two lids: one for pressure cooking and one for air frying.

To see how the Foodi performed as a pressure cooker, we made white rice according to the manufacturer’s instructions and Easy Beef Stew from Multicooker Perfection, which calls for sautéing onions before pressure-cooking beef, carrots, and potatoes in 2 cups of broth. On the plus side, the Foodi was intuitive to program and it produced perfectly fine white rice. However, we ran into problems while trying to make the beef stew.

A small amount of liquid, typically about ½ cup, is added to most multicookers and electric pressure cookers before cooking to prevent scorching and to ensure that the machine reaches proper pressurization. We consulted the Ninja Foodi user manual and confirmed that this machine also calls for ½ cup of liquid when using the pressure-cooker function. But even when we poured 2 cups of broth into the cooking pot for our stew, one copy of the Foodi flashed an error message after the machine had come up to pressure, and stopped cooking. We then released the pressure, added more liquid, and restarted the pressure-cooking process. The sudden temperature fluctuation and prolonged cooking time resulted in mushy, overcooked carrots and potatoes. The added liquid also gave us a thin stew. The same error message occurred in later pressure-cooking tests. However, a second copy of the machine did not flash this error message when we repeated the pressure-cooking tests.

The Foodi As a Slow Cooker

Making the same beef stew using the Foodi’s slow-cooker function proved more challenging. After 8 hours of cooking on low (per our recipe), the beef was fine, just not as juicy and tender as the beef made using the slow-cooker function of our favorite multicooker. To understand why, we heated precisely 5 pounds of water in the Foodi on the low slow-cooker setting and tracked the temperature for 5 hours. We then compared the results to the results of the same test performed in the Zavor multicooker. In the Foodi, the water reached a maximum temperature of only 194.2 degrees—about 7 degrees lower than the maximum temperature of the water in the Zavor. Plus, it took nearly 3 hours for the water in the  Foodi to reach its maximum temperature, and the temperature remained the same for about an hour as the machine was initially heating. By comparison, the water in the Zavor reached its maximum temperature of 200.9 degrees less than 30 minutes into the cooking cycle and stayed there for the remaining 7 hours. This drastic difference in temperature over time explains why the beef cooked in the Foodi wasn’t as tender as the beef cooked in the Zavor.

What About Air Frying?

Although the Foodi couldn’t match the performance of our favorite multicooker, we still wanted to test if it could air-fry effectively. We prepared store-bought frozen French fries and made the Chicken Parmesan and Homemade French Fries recipes from Air Fryer Perfection in the Foodi. Then we compared the results to samples of the same foods cooked in our winning air fryer. The store-bought French fries prepared in the Foodi emerged golden brown all over, and tasters said they couldn’t tell the difference between samples heated in either machine. The homemade fries and chicken both cooked a little bit faster in the Foodi than our recipes called for, and they both had a few overbrowned spots, but ultimately both recipes were fully cooked and crispy—on par with the food produced in our favorite air fryer.

That said, we had a few safety concerns with the design of the Foodi’s air-frying apparatus. The heating element for the Foodi’s air fryer is built into the base of its lid, meaning it’s completely exposed when the lid is open. When we tested air fryers, we found that models with flip tops and exposed heating elements required extra care and attention so that we didn’t burn our hands when using them. This was also true of the Foodi; we had to be careful to avoid the heating element while turning or removing food. It often felt like we were just one wrong move from burning our hand or wrist on the underside of the lid, which is not removable.  

We also took issue with the design of the air-fryer basket, which had small wire handles that, when inserted, sat flush against the sides of the cooking pot. This placement made it extremely difficult to use them to remove the hot basket, especially when wearing oven mitts. 

Should You Buy It?

We did find one area where this machine really excelled: combination cooking. We made the Foodi’s roast chicken recipe, which calls for pressure-cooking a whole 5-pound chicken before using the air-frying function to crisp the skin. We were pleasantly surprised to find that the chicken was tender, juicy, and well-browned all over. Plus, it cooked in about 40 minutes—about 20 minutes less than it takes to roast a whole chicken in an oven.

While a combination air fryer and multicooker is a clever innovation that shows promise, we ultimately thought the Ninja Foodi fell just short of the mark. The dishes cooked in the Foodi were mostly good, but they couldn’t compare to the reliable results produced by our favorite multicooker and air fryer. Usability and safety issues were also difficult to overlook. For this reason, we still prefer our winning multicooker and our winning air fryer to this combination machine because both do a better job cooking and are easier to use. That said, the Ninja Foodi is still a decent option if you’re interested in multicooking and air-frying and have limited kitchen space.


Methodology

We tested the Ninja Foodi, a combination multicooker and air fryer, comparing the foods it produced to the same foods made in our top-rated multicooker and air fryer. To test the pressure-cooking function, we made white rice per the manufacturer’s instructions and Easy Beef Stew from Multicooker Perfection.. We used the air-frying function to prepare both frozen French fries and to make Homemade French Fries and Chicken Parmesan from Air Fryer Perfection. Finally, we followed the manufacturer’s recipe to make herb-roasted whole chicken, which calls for using both the machine’s pressure-cooking and air-frying functions. We tracked the machine’s slow-cooking function temperatures on both low and high over 5 hours. We also tracked the machine’s internal pressure-cooking temperatures at both low and high pressure to understand how efficiently it cooked.

RATING CRITERIA

Pressure Cooking: We were looking for fluffy rice, tender meat, and well-cooked vegetables, all achieved approximately within the time frames stated in our recipes.

Slow Cooking: We were after tender meat and well-cooked vegetables, all achieved approximately within the time frame stated in our recipe.

Air Frying: We gave high marks for French fries and chicken that were crispy on the outside and tender on the inside with no off-flavors.  

Cleanup: We preferred a removable cooking pot that could be cleaned easily and did not warp or hold onto stains. We also preferred that the cooking pot could be cleaned in the dishwasher.

Size: We evaluated the size of the appliance, both with the lid closed and open, and examined its proportions and design to determine if it could be easily stored and operated on the countertop in the standard amount of space available below kitchen cabinets.

Ease of Use: We evaluated how intuitive the Foodi’s controls were to program and understand. We also considered how easy it was to load and remove food.

Safety: We preferred that the heating element be safely concealed from access and evaluated whether the machine felt safe to use throughout cooking.

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The Results

Winner
Recommended

Design Trifecta 360 Knife Block

Admittedly expensive, this handsome block certainly seemed to live up to its billing as “the last knife block you ever have to buy.” The heaviest model in our testing, this block was ultrastable, and its durable bamboo exterior was a breeze to clean. Well-placed medium-strength magnets made it easy to attach all our knives, and a rotating base gave us quick access to them. One tiny quibble: The blade of our 12-inch slicing knife stuck out a little.

$248.64*
Recommended

Schmidt Brothers Downtown Block

This roomy block completely sheathed our entire winning knife set using just one of its two sides—and quite securely, thanks to long, medium-strength magnet bars. Heavy, with a grippy base, this block was very stable. An acrylic guard made this model extra-safe but also made it a little trickier to insert knives and to clean; the wood block itself showed some minor cosmetic scratching during use.

$141.90*

Schmidt Brothers Midtown Block

This smaller version of the Downtown Block secured all our knives nicely, though the blade of the slicing knife stuck out a bit. With a base lined with grippy material, this block was very stable. An acrylic guard afforded extra protection against contact with blades but made it a little harder to insert knives and to clean; the wood itself got a little scratched during use.

$67.99*
Recommended with Reservations

Swissmar Bamboo Magnetic Knife Block

This small, scratch-resistant model had a stable, rubber-lined base and could hold all our knives, though the blade of the 12-inch slicing knife stuck out a bit. But inch-long gaps between its small magnets made coverage uneven and forced us to find the magnetic hot spots in order to secure the knives. Its acrylic guard made it safer to use but harder to insert knives and to clean.

$49.93*
Not Recommended

Messermeister Walnut Magnet Block

This handsome block was done in by its shape—a tippy, top-heavy quarter-circle that wasn’t tall or broad enough to keep the blades of three knives from poking out. It lacked a nonslip base, and its extra-strong magnets made it unnerving to attach or remove our heavy cleaver. Finally, it got a bit scratched after extensive use.

$129.95*

Epicurean Standing Knife Rack 12"

This magnetic block sheathed all our knives completely, though with a bit of crowding. But it was hard to insert each knife without hitting the block’s decorative slats on way down, and because the block was light and narrow, it wobbled when bumped. Worse, we couldn’t take it apart, so splatters that hit the interior were there to stay. Additionally, the outside stained easily, and when we wiped it down, the unit smelled like wet dog.

$99.95*

Kapoosh Rondelle Knife Block

This model stabilized knives with a mass of stiff, spaghetti-like bristles that shed and nicked easily after extensive use, covering our knives with plastic debris. While all our knives fit securely, several of the blades stuck out, making this unit feel less safe overall. Finally, though the bristles could be removed and cleaned in the dishwasher, their nooks and crannies made this block hard to wash by hand.

$24.99*

Kuhn Rikon Vision Knife Block, Clear

This plastic block required us to aim each knife into the folds of an accordion-pleated insert that was removable for easy cleaning but got nicked easily with repeated use. Because we could only insert the knives vertically, longer knife blades stuck out; a cleaver was too wide to fit. The lightest model in our lineup, this block was dangerously top-heavy when loaded with knives.

$35.88*