Members of the Cook’s Illustrated team compared cutlets coated with different types of bread crumbs.
Letting excess egg wash drip off the cutlets ensured that the bread crumbs would cling evenly, creating a fine crust.
One distinguishing feature of any schnitzel is the way the crust—made by dipping the meat in flour, beaten eggs, and bread crumbs—separates from the meat. Here’s how we achieve it.
1. Add Oil
Whisking oil into the eggs for the coating helps lubricate the proteins so that they don’t bind to each other as readily, increasing the egg’s pliability for a crust that puffs but doesn’t break.
2. Use Fine Bread Crumbs
While we normally reach for coarser panko bread crumbs for a coating, finer conventional bread crumbs form a more compact, cohesive coating that traps steam and puffs.
3. Swirl Oil Over Cutlets
We cook the cutlets in a Dutch oven in 2 cups of oil, shaking the pot continuously to wash hot oil over the meat, which quickly sets the breading, traps steam, and puffs the crust.
To help oil flow over the cutlets, grip the handles of your Dutch oven (with dish towels or pot holders) and gently move the pot back and forth over the burner.
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