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How to Build Your Own Cookware Set

Instead of a prepackaged set, why not pick your own perfect pan lineup? Here’s our expert guide.
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Published June 14, 2019.

How to Build Your Own Cookware Set

You can buy a prepackaged cookware set (we reviewed them here), but creating your own customized a la carte set lets you focus your space and resources on the pans you need most.

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To help you get started, we’ve organized choices into three categories:

  • The Essentials: These are the absolute basics we think a home cook needs to prepare the widest selection of recipes with the fewest pans.
  • The Add-Ons: With a little more money to spend and space to spare, you can add these pans next. We consider them to be great choices to build out your core set of essential pans.
  • Awesome Extras: We admit that we love certain pans that may not be utterly essential, but they make us happy. And, truth be told, we find ourselves reaching for them more often than we expected. Some are a bit of a splurge, but we think they’re worth it.

All of the specific products we list below are winners of full testings we conducted here at America’s Test Kitchen. Where relevant, we’ve also included the best inexpensive version of each piece—what we call our Best Buys—to give you more budget flexibility.

The Essentials

These are the absolute basics we think a home cook needs to prepare the widest selection of recipes with the fewest pans. With these four pans, you can make almost any stovetop recipe.

1. DUTCH OVEN

If we had to choose to cook in only one pan forever, this would be it. We use these large, 6- to 7-quart, heavy-duty pots for boiling, searing, frying, braising, and baking, and for sous vide cooking. We turn them into smokers, steamers, coolers, and panini presses. They might just be the busiest pots in our kitchen.

Winner: Le Creuset 7¼ Quart Round Dutch Oven

Best Buy: Cuisinart Chef’s Classic Enameled Cast Iron Covered Casserole

Read Our Full Review of Dutch Ovens

2. LARGE SAUCEPAN WITH LID

You’ll use this pan for everything from soups and sauces to pasta and grains to custards and puddings. (The large size gives you more versatility than a smaller saucepan; it’s less likely to boil over, and you can always use the extra room.)

Winner: All-Clad Stainless 4-Qt Sauce Pan

Best Buy: Tramontina Gourmet Tri-Ply Clad 4 Qt. Covered Sauce Pan

Read Our Full Review of Large Saucepans

3. TWO 12-INCH SKILLETS

A 12-inch skillet gives you flexibility to cook smaller or larger portions as needed. Select two of these four styles, preferably one with a nonstick surface, whether it's coated with a nonstick material or it's a well-seasoned cast-iron or carbon-steel pan, and one for heavy-duty browning and searing. You can pick based on the best material for the way you prefer to cook. Here are the pros and cons of each:

A. NONSTICK

Pros: inexpensive, lightweight, and quick to clean, they make it easy to cook fish, eggs and other delicate foods.

Cons: Not durable. You’ll need to replace every few years. Shouldn't be used with high heat.

Winner: OXO Good Grips Non-Stick 12-inch Open Frypan

Best Induction-Compatible Model: T-Fal Professional Non-Stick Fry Pan

Read Our Full Review of 12-Inch Nonstick Skillets

B. STAINLESS STEEL

Pros: Excellent, uniform searing and browning, best for pan sauces, versatile: can use on stovetop or in oven for frying, roasting, baking, too.

Cons: Food sticks, but you can use the stuck browned bits to add flavor to pan sauces.

Winner: All-Clad d3 Stainless Steel 12″ Fry Pan with Lid

Read Our Full Review of 12-Inch Stainless-Steel Skillets

C. CAST IRON

Pros: Excellent heat retention for deep searing, becomes increasingly nonstick with time, lasts forever.

Cons: Heavy to lift, and requires minor upkeep of seasoning.

Best Traditional Cast-Iron Skillet: Lodge Classic Cast Iron Skillet, 12"

Best Enameled Cast-Iron Skillet: Le Creuset Signature 11 3/4" Iron Handle Skillet

Read Our Full Review of Cast-Iron Skillets

D. CARBON STEEL

Pros: Works like cast iron, but lighter weight; excellent for deep searing. Becomes increasingly nonstick with time, lasts forever.

Cons: Requires minor upkeep of seasoning.

Winner: Matfer Bourgeat Black Steel Round Frying Pan, 11 7/8"

Read Our Full Review of Carbon-Steel Skillets

The Add-Ons

With a little more money to spend and space to spare, you can add these pans next. We consider them to be great choices to build out your core set of essential pans.

1. STOCKPOT

A generous stockpot, 8 to 12 quarts, is an excellent vessel for big batches of pasta, corn, lobster and of course, making soup and stock.

Winner: Cook N Home Stainless Steel Stockpot with Lid 12 Quart

Read Our Full Review of Stockpots

2. SMALL SAUCEPAN, 2 QUARTS

These petite pans are handy melting butter, heating soup, or preparing smaller servings of vegetables and side dishes.

Winner: All-Clad Stainless 2-Quart Saucepan

Best Buy: Tramontina Gourmet Stainless Steel Induction-Ready Tri-Ply Clad Covered Sauce Pan, 2-Quart

3. 10-INCH SKILLET

This size skillet is ideal for an omelet, shepherd’s pie, or anytime you’re cooking for two. Select two of these four styles, preferably one with a nonstick surface, whether it's coated with a nonstick material or it's a well-seasoned cast-iron or carbon-steel pan, and one for heavy-duty browning and searing. You can pick based on the best material for the way you prefer to cook.

A. NONSTICK

Winner: OXO Good Grips Non-Stick Pro 10-inch Open Fry Pan

B. STAINLESS STEEL

Winner: All-Clad d3 Stainless 10” Fry Pan with Lid

C. CAST IRON

Best Traditional 10" Cast-Iron Skillet: Lodge 10.25-Inch Cast Iron Skillet

Best Enameled 10" Cast-Iron Skillet: Le Creuset Signature 10¼ Inch Iron Handle Skillet

Read Our Full Review of 10-Inch Cast-Iron Skillets

D. CARBON STEEL

Winner: Matfer Bourgeat Black Steel Round Frying Pan, 10¼"

Read Our Full Review of 10-Inch Carbon-Steel Skillets 

4. 8-INCH SKILLET

Whether you’re making a single egg, toasting spices, browning butter or breadcrumbs, this small, lightweight skillet comes in handy. Select two of these four styles, preferably one with a nonstick surface, whether it's coated with a nonstick material or it's a well-seasoned cast-iron or carbon-steel pan, and one for heavy-duty browning and searing. You can pick based on the best material for the way you prefer to cook.

A. NONSTICK

Winner: OXO Good Grips Hard Anodized Pro Nonstick 8-Inch Fry Pan

Read Our Full Review of 8-Inch Nonstick Skillets

B. STAINLESS STEEL

Winner: All-Clad Stainless 8" Frypan

C. CAST IRON

Best Traditional 8" Cast-Iron Skillet: Lodge 8-Inch Cast Iron Skillet

Best Enameled 8" Cast-Iron Skillet: Le Creuset Signature 9-Inch Iron Handle Skillet

Read Our Full Review of 8-Inch Cast-Iron Skillets

D. CARBON STEEL

Winner: Matfer Bourgeat Black Steel Round Frying Pan, 8⅝"

Read Our Full Review of 8-Inch Carbon-Steel Skillets

Awesome Extras

We admit that we love certain pans that may not be utterly essential, but they make us happy. And, truth be told, we find ourselves reaching for them more often than we expected. Some are a bit of a splurge, but we think they’re worth it.

1. STOVETOP GRIDDLE

Whether you’re cooking pancakes, eggs, grilled cheese, or smashburgers for a crowd, a stovetop griddle gives you plenty of room to cook big batches.

Winner: Anolon Advanced Double Burner Griddle

Read Our Full Review of Stovetop Griddles

2. SAUTÉ PAN

We like these deeper, lidded frying pans for recipes that require extra space, such as cooking down heaps of greens, shallow-frying, and braising, where you brown food, add liquid and simmer it covered.

Winner: All-Clad Stainless 3-Quart Tri-Ply Sauté Pan

Best Buy: Cuisinart MultiClad Pro Stainless 3 1/2-Quart Sauté Pan with Helper and Cover

Read Our Full Review of Sauté Pans

3. SAUCIER

These bowl-shaped saucepans pans with their flared walls and rounded corners were designed for reducing sauces, but they’re also perfect for oatmeal, risotto, and polenta, where the food is prone to getting lodged in corners, as well as custards and sauces that require frequent stirring.

Winner: Le Creuset 3 1/2 Quart Stainless Steel Saucier Pan

Best Buy: Zwilling J.A. Henckels Aurora 3.5 qt Stainless Steel Saucier

Read Our Full Review of Sauciers

4. PAELLA PAN

Even if you only occasionally make paella, you’ll find plenty of use for this round, shallow carbon-steel vessel. It’s terrific on the grill or stove, anytime you might otherwise use a skillet or griddle.

Winner: Matfer Bourgeat Black Steel Paella Pan

Read Our Full Review of Paella Pans

5. STOVETOP PRESSURE COOKER

More compact to store, and not requiring any electricity or counterspace compared to multicookers, this pot makes excellent food, fast. It also doubles as a large saucepan.

Winner: Fissler Vitaquick 8½-Quart Pressure Cooker

Best Buy: Zavor Duo 8.4 Quart Pressure Cooker

Read Our Full Reviews of Pressure Cookers

6. GRILL PAN

When you want flavorful char marks on meats, sandwiches, and vegetables, and the ability to sear meats while draining fat away, grill pans offer an indoor option to outdoor cooking.

Winner: Staub 12-Inch American Square Grill Pan and Press

Best Buy: Lodge Square Grill Pan and Lodge Ribbed Panini Press

Read Our Full Reviews of Grill Pans

7. SMALL DUTCH OVEN

When you’re making smaller portions or need a pot that’s easier to lift and maneuver, these lighter, smaller 3-quart enameled cast iron Dutch ovens come in handy and are attractive for serving.

Winner: Le Creuset 3.5 Quart Round Dutch Oven

Best Buy: Cuisinart 3 Quart Round Covered Casserole

Read Our Full Review of Small Dutch Ovens

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