Lard

Lard had a tough time in the 20th century. After hundreds of years as America’s everyday choice for frying and baking, it went completely out of fashion. Crisco arrived in 1911, helped by health reports throughout the 20th century—now mostly discredited—about the evils of animal fat. In 1928, Americans ate an annual average of 14.3 pounds of lard per person; by 2009, that fell to 1.5 pounds. But all along, a faithful few kept lard as a secret weapon for making extra-flaky, tender pie crust and biscuits, Southern fried chicken, and Mexican foods such as tamales and carnitas. Lard is the traditional cooking fat of Thailand and parts of China, Italy, Poland, Hungary, and Mexico as well as Central and South America—not to mention the American South.

We decided it was time to check out the lard market. We bought seven products, four from supermarkets and three online, to try in three blind tastings. First we substituted lard for butter in biscuits and pie crust, and then we prepared Pork Carnitas, for which the meat simmers in lard until it is meltingly tender and rich. Twenty-one America’s Test Kitchen staffers rated the results on flavor, texture, and overall appeal.

What Does Lard Taste Like?

We noticed a big difference in flavor, especially in baked goods. Highly ranked lards made biscuits and pie crusts that tasted “clean, rich”; “very neutral, almost buttery”; and “lightly sweet and delicate.” On the flip side, our lower-ranked lards gave biscuits and pie crusts anywhere from a hint of porkiness to “big, savory, porky flavor.” While tasters didn’t truly mind—we ultimately recommended even the porkiest lard with reservations—tasters noted that pork flavor wasn’t always welcome. “Not what I’d choose for a fruit pie,” one wrote. In carnitas, those porky lards excelled, enhancing the rich flavor of the chunks and shreds of pork. Still, we decided that we’d prefer an all-purpose lard for both sweet and savory recipes.

Lard’s flavor is the result of several factors, from the breed and diet of the pig to where on its body the fat was located and how it was processed. To make lard, pork fat is separated from other tissue using dry heat or steam or by simmering it in water and then using a centrifuge to remove the water. According to Jennifer McClagen, author of Fat: An Appreciation of a Misunderstood Ingredient (2008), higher rendering temperatures can give lard that “roast-pork” savory taste we noticed, while lower rendering temperatures can keep its flavor neutral. Manufacturers often deodorize and refine lard to reduce scents or flavors and add preservatives to prevent rancidity, all of which contributes to a more neutral taste.

... read more