The only drawback was that the cow’s‑milk cheese actually made the dip a little too stiff, not to mention assertively salty (cow’s‑milk fetas tend to be saltier). Whipping in a few tablespoons of milk loosened its consistency enough that it could be swiped up with a piece of soft pita. And as for taming the salinity, I did what we often do with salty ingredients such as anchovies and capers: I rinsed it, which tempered the saltiness just enough.
With the base of the dip settled, I worked in some fresh oregano as well as a hint of minced garlic that I’d soaked in lemon juice to take the edge off its bite. It was a very traditional take.
But the beauty of this dip—other than how easy it is to make—is that the tangy, milky-rich base takes well to lots of different flavors. It was just as easy to give the dip a smoky profile by adding roasted red peppers, smoked paprika, and a touch of cayenne as it was to pack it with grassy dill and parsley. With results this good, why wait to include this dip in a meze spread? I’ll be whipping it up for a snack any old time.