Cook's Illustrated

Grilled Stuffed Pork Loin

Published September 1, 2007.

Our moist stuffing works from the inside out to combat dryness in lean pork.

The Problem

Center-cut pork loin is an especially lean cut, making it difficult to cook without drying out.

The Goal

We wanted to keep our pork loin moist but use an approach other than traditional brines or sauces.

The Solution

We bought a short and wide roast, more square than cylindrical. This shape only required four straight, short cuts to open to a long, flat sheet that was easy to fill and roll up. The best stuffing required both a deep flavor to counter the pork's rather bland taste and a texture thick enough to stay put. Poaching fruit, especially apples and cranberries, in a blend of apple cider, apple cider vinegar, and spices developed a filling with the dense, chewy consistency we wanted. And this process had an added bonus—we had ample poaching liquid left, which could be reduced to a glaze. We had already decided not to give the loin a preliminary sear, which can create a tough exterior, but found we missed the brown color that searing produces. Rolling the loin in our glaze gave it a beautiful mahogany finish.

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