Cook's Illustrated

Perfecting Grilled Veal Chops

Charred, dried-out veal chops are an expensive disappointment. How do you guarantee perfect results with this pricey cut?

The Problem

Expensive veal chops often disappoint with a sickly pale color, soft flesh, and insipid flavor.

The Goal

We wanted our grilled veal chops to be worth the price—with a rich, meaty taste and a juicy texture.

The Solution

We developed a slight preference for rib chops, although loin chops also proved to be a good choice. We discovered that 1¼-inch-thick chops were perfect—they browned without drying out, and each chop made a suitable serving. Since veal has a delicate flavor, we limited seasoning to a light dusting of salt and pepper (although we subsequently developed a few spice variations that worked well). Our grill tests confirmed that veal cooked over high heat browned too deeply before the center was even warm, and flavor and texture were optimal when the meat was cooked to between medium-rare and medium. To achieve the necessary control, we utilized a two-level fire to sear the chops on the hot side, developing a rich-tasting crust, then finished them on the cooler coals.

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