Cook's Illustrated

Pasta with Hearty Greens and Beans

Published November 1, 2005.

This classic recipe from the Italian countryside deserves a place on the American table. Could we streamline it without forfeiting flavor?

The Problem

Pasta, hearty greens, and beans can be a sublime dish, but these humble ingredients traditionally take time to make the transition to a full-flavored entrée.

The Goal

We wanted to retain the complex flavor of this classic Italian dish but make it an easy, quick, and satisfying midweek meal.

The Solution

Hearty greens often require a multi-step process to tame their bitterness, so we restricted our choice to kale and collard greens; not-so-bitter varieties that require only a quick braise. This technique not only allowed us to cook the greens in a single batch but let us add the flavors of aromatic onions, garlic, spicy red pepper flakes, and chicken broth at the same time. Using a nutty whole wheat pasta added a pleasing complexity. Finally, we added some heavy-hitting flavors to compensate for the mild flavor of the canned beans: hearty pancetta, acidic tomatoes, briny olives, and earthy fontina and Parmesan cheese. The greens, beans, and sauce had to simmer with the pasta for just a few minutes to create a gutsy, harmonious flavor.

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America’s Test Kitchen is a 2,500-square-foot kitchen located just outside of Boston. It is the home of Cook’s Country and Cook’s Illustrated magazines and is the workday destination for more than three dozen test cooks, editors, and cookware specialists. Our mission is to test recipes until we understand how and why they work and arrive at the best version. We also test kitchen equipment and supermarket ingredients in search of brands that offer the best value and performance. You can watch us work by tuning in to America’s Test Kitchen (www.americastestkitchen.com) on public television.