Foolproof Ricotta Calzones - Cooks Illustrated

Published September 1, 2003.

With soggy fillings and bready crusts, bad calzones are a dime a dozen. After baking 240 of them, we’ve elevated calzones above common pizzeria fare.

The Problem

We tested a host of modern calzone recipes and came up with specimens that even the most fast food-deadened teenage palate would reject. These calzones were pale and blond, soggy and limp, and they tended to hover at one of two extremes: too bready and rubbery or too thin and cracker-like.

The Goal

A crisp crust with plenty of chew, and a healthy proportion of rich, creamy, flavorful filling.

The Solution

Use bread flour to give the crust chew and crispness, olive oil to add flavor and make the dough easy to handle, and then mix for 10 minutes to fully develop the gluten in the dough, thereby guaranteeing that good chew. Keep it simple, with a filling of ricotta, mozzarella, and Parmesan in just the right proportions, blended with a single egg yolk. Cut vents in the tops to let off some steam, and cool the calzones on a rack to prevent soggy bottoms.

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America’s Test Kitchen is a 2,500-square-foot kitchen located just outside of Boston. It is the home of Cook’s Country and Cook’s Illustrated magazines and is the workday destination for more than three dozen test cooks, editors, and cookware specialists. Our mission is to test recipes until we understand how and why they work and arrive at the best version. We also test kitchen equipment and supermarket ingredients in search of brands that offer the best value and performance. You can watch us work by tuning in to America’s Test Kitchen (www.americastestkitchen.com) on public television.