Published September 1, 2003.
The dry fat-free triangles passed off as scones at coffeehouses would make better paperweights. Is it possible to bake a rich, toasty oatmeal scone at home?
Scones in America-unlike their diminutive English counterparts-have the reputation of being thick, heavy, dry bricks. To enhance their appeal, they are often disguised under a sugary shellac of achingly sweet glaze or filled with chopped ginger, chopped fruit, or chocolate chips. Despite these feeble attempts to dress them up, it is no secret that today's coffeehouse confections are a far cry from what a scone should be: tender and flaky, like a slightly sweetened biscuit.
To pack the chewy nuttiness of oats into a moist and tender breakfast pastry, one that wouldn't require a fire hose to wash down the crumbs.
Toast the oats—either rolled or quick oats—to obtain good nutty flavor. Fat is flavor, so don’t skimp on the butter, and use half-and-half for a rich oatmeal scone that won’t double as a paperweight. Be careful not to overmix, and bake in a very hot oven to get maximum rise with a soft, delicate interior.
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