Published January 1, 1998.
For soft, pillowy eggs, you need a slow hand, a heavy nonstick pan, and (despite much advice to the contrary) high heat.
Getting the simplest things right can be the trickiest because we don't think much will be expected of us. Scrambled eggs are a good example. Seemingly easy to make, they can easily go wrong, and overcooking is probably the most common problem. As it turns out, a lot of considerations go into the making of a perfectly scrambled egg.
Scrambled eggs that are a dreamy mound of big, softly wobbling curds, yellow as a legal pad, glistening, a hair-breadth away from undercooking. When cut, the eggs should be cooked enough to hold their shape but soft enough to eat with a spoon--a cross between a custard gone right and gone wrong.
Combine eggs, salt, pepper, and milk in a bowl and whisk lightly (overbeating can cause premature coagulation of the egg proteins, thereby making the eggs tough before they hit the pan). Use a nonstick pan appropriate to the number of eggs you're making (too large and the eggs will spread too thin and not cook properly). Cook the eggs in butter over high heat for less than a minute, keeping the eggs in constant motion. For big, fluffy curds, fold rather than stir the eggs.
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