Cook's Illustrated

Holiday Potato Casserole

Published November 1, 1999.

We wanted a casserole that featured the flavor of potatoes, yet was still rich and elegant enough for a holiday side dish.

The Problem

These cream-laden casseroles are quite heavy; while a baked ham can stand up to a such a rich and fatty casserole, a roasted turkey or even a roast beef might not fare as well.

The Goal

Potato casseroles are often swathed in heavy cream and lots of cheese, and this is largely why people love them; they taste like dairy much more than they taste like potatoes. We wanted a potato casserole that would showcase the potatoes instead of the dairy and that would complement, not overwhelm, the other dishes on the table.

The Solution

Use a mix of russet and Yukon Gold potatoes. Russets lend denseness to the texture of the casserole and also contribute a hearty potato flavor. Yukon Golds add a welcome succulence. We did manage to eliminate the cream from our recipe but found that some dairy was necessary to bind the layers of potato together. Gouda cheese, in combination with a velouté sauce made from chicken stock, flour, and butter, did the trick. A moderate amount of this cheese and sauce also enriched the flavor of the casserole without overshadowing the potatoes.

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