Cook's Illustrated

The Perfect Chilled Lemon Soufflé

Published July 1, 1999.

This dessert, an American take on the classic Bavarian cream, runs the gamut from rubbery orb to lemony foam. The perfect version, however, is a divine marriage of custard and soufflé.

The Problem

"Chilled lemon soufflé" can be interpreted in many ways, from cooled baked pudding cake to lemony, eggy foam. But no matter what the desired outcome, what typically results is a dense, rubbery mass or a mouthful of tart egg white foam. The delicate balance of ingredients (eggs, lemon flavoring, gelatin, sugar, and cream) is hard for home cooks to get right.

The Goal

A chilled lemon soufflé that perfected the unusual marriage of cream and foam, sweet and sour, high lemony notes and rich custard.

The Solution

Lighten a silky custard base with beaten egg whites and whipped cream, then add both lemon juice and zest to give the soufflé an extra citrus punch. Pour into a soufflé dish enhanced with a homemade foil collar to give the soufflé more room to rise.

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