Cook's Illustrated

Bittersweet Chocolate Roulade—Yule Log

Published November 1, 2000.

We created a cake that is easy to roll but still moist, tender, and full of chocolate flavor. With the cream, ganache, and mushrooms, this cake also makes the ultimate yule log cake.

The Problem

A chocolate roulade can be a baker's nightmare--hard to roll, lackluster in flavor, and with a dry texture.

The Goal

A recipe for a true showcase roulade, with a velvety texture and not-too-sweet chocolate flavor.

The Solution

Use bitter- or semi-sweet chocolate for maximum chocolate flavor, six eggs for support, and a combination of cocoa and flour for structural support and extra chocolate flavor. Once baked, cool briefly in the pan on a cooling rack, then unmold onto a kitchen towel rubbed with cocoa to prevent sticking. Roll the cake while it is warm with the towel inside, cool briefly and then unroll; the cake will retain its rolled memory and can be filled and re-rolled. For the filling, make a simple espresso mascarpone cream from just four ingredients, and top all with a rich dark chocolate ganache.

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