Perfecting Egg-Lemon Soup - Cooks Illustrated

Published March 1, 2000.

Just the right combination of four common ingredients makes an exceptional soup.

The Problem

Egg-lemon soup, for all its simplicity, presents numerous pitfalls. It can be too acidic, contain lumpy bits of cooked eggs, or taste too much like chicken stock.

The Goal

A well-balanced, smooth-textured soup, with real lemon flavor. The texture must be rich and soft, not thin or frothy or pasty. The soup should be free of touch bits of cooked egg, which would mar its luxurious texture. Finally, you want a full, lemony flavor-more than just acidity-to balance the savory flavor of the stock.

The Solution

Simmer the stock with lemon zest, make sure the eggs are not cold, and temper the lightly whisked eggs slowly with hot stock before adding them to the soup. If at all possible, use homemade chicken stock, though canned chicken broth will do in a pinch.

list of recipes

America’s Test Kitchen is a 2,500-square-foot kitchen located just outside of Boston. It is the home of Cook’s Country and Cook’s Illustrated magazines and is the workday destination for more than three dozen test cooks, editors, and cookware specialists. Our mission is to test recipes until we understand how and why they work and arrive at the best version. We also test kitchen equipment and supermarket ingredients in search of brands that offer the best value and performance. You can watch us work by tuning in to America’s Test Kitchen (www.americastestkitchen.com) on public television.