Cook's Illustrated

Fresh Rhubarb 'Fool'

Published May 1, 2001.

How do you tame rhubarb's tartness without losing its true flavor? We cooked 50 pounds of it to find out.

The Problem

"Fools" themselves are simple desserts--a traditional English mix of sweetened whipped cream and cooked fruit. The problem lies in the rhubarb, with its sometimes overpowering sourness and tendency to cook into a thick, drab gray mess.

The Goal

We wanted the perfect balance--pinkish-red, sweet/tart, toothsome fruit mixed with light, sweet cream.

The Solution

Soak the rhubarb in water to reduce the acid, simmer in orange juice and sugar (and don't stir too much) to retain texture and color, and layer with lightly whipped, sweetened cream for ideal flavor and texture and an attractive, unusual presentation.

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