Discovering Fresh Ham Roast - Cooks Illustrated

Published March 1, 2001.

The right brine, the right sequence of oven temperatures, and the right glaze transform an uncured ham into a pork roast with rich, moist meat and crackling crisp skin.

The Problem

Fresh ham is not cured like a Smithfield ham or salted and air-dried like prosciutto. It's not pressed or molded like a canned ham, and it's not smoked like a country ham. In fact, some people think there's no such thing as "fresh" ham. There is--but what is the best way to cook it?

The Goal

To roast a flavorful, succulent fresh ham that's worthy of a holiday table.

The Solution

Purchase a shank end with the skin on and score the fat. Brine in a solution flavored with brown sugar, garlic, bay leaves, and black peppercorns. Start the ham at high heat and finish at low heat for crisp, flavorful skin and tender meat. Finish with a sweet—but not too sweet—glaze.

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