Published March 1, 2004.
Whatever happened to the chewy, not-over-the-top chocolaty brownie from our childhood?
Either pale, dry, and cakey or cloyingly sweet, the initial recipes we tried were all lacking in substantial chocolate flavor.
We wanted an old-fashioned brownie, but one that had serious chocolate flavor. We wanted the brownies we enjoyed in our youth--Mom's brownies--but altered to cater to adult tastes.
Use cake flour for tender brownies with a delicate chew and add baking powder to lighten the crumb. Use plenty of unsweetened chocolate for maximum chocolate flavor--not too sweet, with profound chocolate notes. Be sure to bake for the right amount of time--too short and the brownies will be gummy and underbaked, too long and they will be dry. Finally, if you like nuts, toast them and top the brownies just before baking; baked inside the brownies, they steam and get soft.
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