Quick Cheese Bread - Cooks Illustrated

Published May 1, 2004.

Run-of-the-mill cheese bread is at once dry and greasy, with fleeting cheese flavor. We were after something different: a rich, moist loaf topped with a bold, cheesy crust.

The Problem

Most of the recipes tested offered the worst of both worlds: dry bread and no cheese flavor. The breads elicited comments from tasters such as "cardboardy," "tough," and "totally devoid of cheese flavor."

The Goal

Unlike pizza, wherein bread dough is merely topped with cheese, a true cheese bread involves a more intimate relationship, going well beyond the quick blind date in which the two ingredients are merely thrown together and then heated. Good cheese bread displays a subtle balance of flavor and texture, with neither party getting the upper hand.

The Solution

Use all-purpose flour with whole milk and sour cream for a clean, creamy flavor and rich, moist texture. Just 3 tablespoons of butter adds richness without greasiness, and using less fat makes the texture heartier and less cakelike. A single egg gives rise and structure without an overly eggy flavor. As for cheese, mix small chunks (rather than shreds) of Asiago or cheddar into the dough. Just 4 ounces adds plenty of flavor without weighing down the bread. For added cheesy flavor (and a crisp, browned crust), coat the pan and sprinkle the top of the loaf with shredded Parmesan.

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America’s Test Kitchen is a 2,500-square-foot kitchen located just outside of Boston. It is the home of Cook’s Country and Cook’s Illustrated magazines and is the workday destination for more than three dozen test cooks, editors, and cookware specialists. Our mission is to test recipes until we understand how and why they work and arrive at the best version. We also test kitchen equipment and supermarket ingredients in search of brands that offer the best value and performance. You can watch us work by tuning in to America’s Test Kitchen (www.americastestkitchen.com) on public television.