Published March 1, 2008.
In Tuscany, creamy, flavorful beans transform rustic soups and stews into something special. We were determined to avoid tough, exploded beans.
Ideally, all the beans in a dish should have a tender, uniform texture, but too often the skins are tough and the insides mealy, or the beans are almost disintegrated.
We wanted to convert a classic Tuscan bean soup into a hearty rustic stew, with creamy, buttery beans and chunks of vegetables combining to create a deeply flavorful one-pot meal.
Since the beans are the centerpiece of this stew, we concentrated on cooking them perfectly. After testing a variety of soaking times, we settled on soaking the beans overnight, a method that consistently produced the most tender and evenly cooked beans. But none of the methods we tested properly softened the skins. The answer was to soak the beans in salted water. Brining the beans, rather than the conventional approach of soaking them in plain water and then cooking them in saltwater, allowed the salt to soften the skins but kept it from penetrating inside, where it could make the beans mealy. Tests showed that gently cooking the beans in a 250-degree oven produced perfectly cooked beans that stayed intact. The final trick was to add the tomatoes toward the end of cooking, since their acid interfered with the softening process. To complete our stew, we looked for other traditional Tuscan flavors, including pancetta, kale, lots of garlic, and a sprig of rosemary. And to make it even more substantial, we serve the stew on a slab of toasted country bread, drizzled with fruity extra-virgin olive oil.list of recipes