Cook's Illustrated

Perfecting Oven-Roasted Salmon

Published March 1, 2008.

Most recipes for salmon create either a nicely browned exterior or a silky, moist interior. Why shouldn’t we have our salmon both ways?

The Problem

Roasting a salmon fillet can create a brown exterior, but often at the price of a dry, overcooked interior.

The Goal

The best roasted salmon should have moist, succulent flesh inside, with a contrasting crisp texture on the outside.

The Solution

A hybrid roasting solution is the answer. Preheat the oven to an extra-high 500 degrees, but reduce it to a very low 275 degrees just before placing the fish in the oven. The initial blast of high heat firms the exterior of the salmon, helping render some of the excess fat. The fish gently cooks as the oven temperature slowly drops, keeping the meat moist and succulent while some of the remaining fat is eliminated through several slits made in the skin. And while salmon can stand perfectly well on its own, quick salsas and easy, no-cook relishes add interesting flavors and a little acidity to balance the richness of the fish.

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America’s Test Kitchen is a 2,500-square-foot kitchen located just outside of Boston. It is the home of Cook’s Country and Cook’s Illustrated magazines and is the workday destination for more than three dozen test cooks, editors, and cookware specialists. Our mission is to test recipes until we understand how and why they work and arrive at the best version. We also test kitchen equipment and supermarket ingredients in search of brands that offer the best value and performance. You can watch us work by tuning in to America’s Test Kitchen (www.americastestkitchen.com) on public television.