Published January 1, 2003.
Quick cooking and a "squeeze" give this classic Italian side dish the texture and flavor it deserves.
Overcooked spinach, bitter burnt garlic, and pallid lemon flavor are all too often the hallmark of this traditional side dish.
Spinach that is glossy and tender to a fault, the supporting flavors defining rather than camouflaging the leafy green's sweet mineral tang.
Start with bunched flat-leaf spinach, cooked in fruity extra-virgin olive oil with slivered garlic (lightly browned in the pan before the spinach is added). Squeeze the spinach in a colander over the sink to get rid of all the excess moisture. Return the spinach to the pan and finish with lemon juice and grated lemon zest, with a pinch of red pepper flakes for some gentle heat and a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil to boost the fruitiness.
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