Published July 1, 2002.
The best pad Thai recipe should feature clean, fresh, not-too-sweet flavors; perfectly cooked noodles; and plenty of plump, juicy shrimp with tender bits of scrambled egg. To get the noodles right, we soaked rice sticks in hot tap water for 20 minutes before stir-frying for tender but not sticky noodles. To create the salty, sweet, sour, and spicy flavor profile of pad Thai, we combined fish sauce, sugar, ground chiles, and vinegar. We added tamarind paste for the fresh, bright, fruity taste that is essential to the dish.
A wok might be the implement of choice in restaurants and the old country, but a large 12-inch skillet (nonstick makes cleanup easy) is more practical for home cooks. Although pad thai cooks very quickly, the ingredient list is long, and everything must be prepared and within easy reach at the stovetop when you begin cooking. For maximum efficiency, use the time during which the tamarind and noodles soak to prepare the other ingredients. Tofu is a good and common addition to pad thai. If you like, add 4 ounces of extra-firm tofu or pressed tofu (available in Asian markets) cut into 1/2-inch cubes (about 1 cup) to the noodles along with the bean sprouts.
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