Published July 1, 1993.
For an eggplant recipe with rich, meaty flavor, we turned to salting. We found that eggplant must macerate for at least 1 1/2 hours, preferably for two to three, to allow the salt to do its job. Salting alone, however, was not sufficient. The flesh of the eggplant also had to be firmly pressed between sheets of paper towels; pressing extruded the juice and compacted the flesh. Finally, no matter what the cooking method, we found eggplant always came out firmer, browner, and sweeter when cooked slowly rather than quickly.