Published July 1, 2009. From Cook's Illustrated.
For a berry gratin recipe with firm but juicy fruit, frothy zabaglione, and a lightly browned crust, we discovered a few tricks. Tossing the berries with sugar and a pinch of salt helped draw out their juices. Cooking the custard over low heat prevented it from curdling, and whipping it longer than usual gave it great texture. For the thickest, most flavorful custard, we added whipped cream and a few spoonfuls of Sauvignon Blanc (which we prefer to Marsala for its clean flavor). A sprinkling of granulated and brown sugar provided the caramelized crust. The resulting fresh berry gratin recipe was juicy, light, and creamy, just what we were looking for.
When making the zabaglione, make sure to cook the egg mixture in a glass bowl over water that is barely simmering. Glass conducts heat more evenly and gently than metal. If the heat is too high, the yolks around the edges of the bowl will start to scramble. Constant whisking is required. Although we prefer to make this recipe with a mixture of raspberries, blackberries, blueberries, and strawberries, you can use 3 cups of just one type of berry. Do not use frozen berries. A broilerproof pie plate or gratin dish can be used in place of the individual gratin dishes. To prevent scorching, pay close attention to the gratins when broiling.
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