Published November 1, 1998.
Hardy-textured greens with strong flavors create salads that can stand up to a warm dressing or a single hot ingredient.
These salads can be bland or soggy or both.
Cool, crisp greens tossed with a warm dressing or a single hot ingredient--a combination that would make for a great winter starter.
The secret is to use greens that have hardy textures and assertive flavors. The crisp texture of greens such as escarole, radicchio, arugula, and watercress can withstand a dousing with warm dressing or the addition of a hot ingredient without becoming so wilted that they are no longer a pleasure to eat. Meanwhile, their assertive flavors become pleasantly subdued, not overpowered.
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