Published May 1, 1999.
The keys to velvety, chunky-textured guacamole are the right avocado and a minimum of mashing.
Guacamole has traveled a long road. Once a simple Mexican avocado relish, it has become one of America's favorite party dips. Unfortunately, the journey has not necessarily been pleasant. The guacamole that abounds at restaurants and parties today often sacrifices the singular, extraordinary character of avocados--the culinary equivalent of velvet--by adding too many other ingredients. Even worse, the texture of the dip is often reduced to an utterly smooth, listless puree.
A recipe that put the avocado back where it belonged, at center stage. It should highlight the dense, buttery texture and loamy, nutty flavor of the avocado. Just as important, the consistency of the dip should be chunky rather than perfectly smooth.
Start with fully ripe (the fruit yields slightly to a gentle squeeze when held in the palm of your hand), small, rough-skinned Hass avocados. Mash a third of the avocados with a fork, combine with the other ingredients (onion, garlic, jalapeño, cilantro, salt, and cumin), then dice the remaining avocados and fold them in with a very light hand.
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