Published March 1, 1999.
We discover how to avoid the twin problems of these salads--blandness and a dressing that overpowers the celery root--and also figure out the best way to grate this vegetable.
The hardest part of the process would be to figure out how to prepare the root vegetable itself: the best and quickest way to peel the bumpy, uneven outer layer and the proper method for cutting or grating it so that it retained some resistance and crunch in the final salad.
Unlike cooked purees or gratins, a celery root salad should maintain the vegetable's pristine white appearance, its crunchy, coleslaw-like texture, and (most important) its refreshing herbal flavor, which tastes like a combination of mint, anise, mild radish, and celery. It should also contain a creamy, tangy dressing that enhances the vegetable's natural appeal.
For easiest peeling, remove the top and bottom and then use a paring knife to remove the outer layer of flesh from top to bottom. For thin pieces of celery root that still retain their crunch, use the coarse side of a box grater or a food processor. Dress with a vinaigrette finished with sour cream to complement the flavor of the celery root, contributing a fuller, rounder, and creamier flavor.
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