Published March 1, 1996.
For a firm yet tender frittata, start cooking it on the stovetop and finish it in a moderately heated oven.
Since few cookbooks agree on a method for making frittatas, we would have to test a number of techniques to determine which would consistently yield the best frittata, an Italian version of the filled omelet.
Whereas an omelet should be soft, delicate, and slightly runny, a frittata should be tender but firm. And whereas an omelet encases its filling a frittata incorporates it evenly throughout. A frittata should also be easy--very easy--to make.
Start the frittata on the stovetop and finish in the oven; that way it sets evenly and doesn't burn or dry out. Use a nonstick skillet with an ovenproof handle. Conventional skillets require so much oil to prevent sticking that frittatas cooked in them are likely to be greasy. Eggs often cook more evenly in a nonstick pan because they won't cling to the surface in various places.
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