Cook's Illustrated

Perfecting Egg-Lemon Soup

Published March 1, 2000.

Just the right combination of four common ingredients makes an exceptional soup.

The Problem

Egg-lemon soup, for all its simplicity, presents numerous pitfalls. It can be too acidic, contain lumpy bits of cooked eggs, or taste too much like chicken stock.

The Goal

A well-balanced, smooth-textured soup, with real lemon flavor. The texture must be rich and soft, not thin or frothy or pasty. The soup should be free of touch bits of cooked egg, which would mar its luxurious texture. Finally, you want a full, lemony flavor-more than just acidity-to balance the savory flavor of the stock.

The Solution

Simmer the stock with lemon zest, make sure the eggs are not cold, and temper the lightly whisked eggs slowly with hot stock before adding them to the soup. If at all possible, use homemade chicken stock, though canned chicken broth will do in a pinch.

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