Cook's Illustrated

Beef Wellington Without Fear

Published November 1, 2001.

Is this dinosaur of a recipe worth making at home? If you like flaky—not soggy—pastry wrapped around perfectly pink, flavorful beef, the answer is an enthusiastic yes.

The Problem

Beef Wellington, which can be a delectable treat, is notoriously difficult to make and often ends up as a pallid, dry roast, covered in soggy pastry and overcooked paté, served with either a thin or thick, clumpy gravy.

The Goal

Wellington worthy of the time and cost--tender, flavorful beef encased in earthy mushrooms, rich paté, and a flaky pastry, napped by a rich, glossy sauce.

The Solution

Dry-age and sear the right cut of beef, cover with duxelles (finely chopped and sautéed mushrooms) and paté, then assemble and bake on the lowest rack of a very hot oven to prevent a soggy bottom crust. Use a package of oxtails and a decent bottle of wine for the sauce, and follow the work-ahead timeline to pull it all off in time for dinner.

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