Published November 1, 2001.
We get the best of the devil by flambéing the shrimp hot and fast and sautéing the garlic long and slow.
Most shrimp fra diavolo recipes ("brother devil" in Italian) lack depth of flavor, with the star ingredients, shrimp and garlic, contributing little to an acrid, unbalanced tomato sauce.
A seriously garlicky, spicy, winey tomato sauce studded with sweet, firm shrimp.
Sear and flambé the shrimp with cognac to caramelize it and enrich its sweetness. Sauté the garlic slowly for a mellow nutty flavor, and reserve a tablespoon of raw garlic for a last-minute punch of heat and spice. Simmer diced, canned tomatoes and a splash of white wine (balanced by a bit of sugar), to complete a perfect fra diavolo in less than 30 minutes.
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