Cook's Illustrated

Holiday Shopping Guide

Don't waste your money on disappointing products. We've assembled all of our essential equipment reviews and taste tests so you'll know exactly which items to buy this holiday season.

Frequently Asked Questions

I know premade pie crusts aren't as good as homemade, but are some brands better than others?

We tried several types and brands of premade pie crusts—both frozen and refrigerated—in recipes for pumpkin pie and double-crust apple pie. None was as good as homemade, but one passed muster.

Without fail, my metal spatula crumples warm cookies instead of lifting them neatly off the pan. What should I do to prevent this?

Few people give much thought to choosing a good turner-style spatula. Most of us simply put up with tools that don’t particularly help us—and may even get in the way of our doing a better job as we flip or transport food. To find one that helped instead of hindered us in the kitchen, we gathered five metal spatulas and put them to the test.

As long as my cooling rack allows the air to circulate around the baked good, does it really matter which one I buy?

To find out, we tested six racks, searching for one that was able to withstand a hot broiler without warping or damage and to fit inside a standard baking pan. One rack offered extra support and took top honors, but our runner-up was almost as good—and cost only a fraction of the price.

Is it OK to replace unsalted butter with salted butter if I adjust the total amount of salt in the recipe?

We advise against cooking with salted butter for three reasons. First, the amount of salt in salted butter varies from brand to brand, making it impossible to offer conversion amounts that will work with all brands. Second, because salt masks some of the flavor nuances found in butter, salted butter tastes different from unsalted butter.

Finally, salted butter almost always contains more water than unsalted butter. The water in butter ranges from 10 to 18 percent. In baking, butter with a low water content is preferred, since excess water can interfere with the development of gluten. In fact, when we used the same brand of both salted and unsalted butter to make brownies and drop biscuits, tasters noticed that samples made with salted butter were a little mushy and pasty; they preferred the texture of baked goods made with unsalted butter.

View the full Unsalted Butter Tasting

My tarts always emerge from the pan in pieces. Could it have something to do with the tart pan?

We know the disappointment when an elegant lemon or chocolate tart crumbles as you attempt to liberate it from its pan. During our testing of seven tart pans, we had this unfortunate experience numerous times. In the end, we found that it pays to choose your tart pan carefully.

Which type of baking sheet is best for baking cookies: rimmed or flat? Do I need both?

To determine if you need both types of baking sheets, we made two identical batches of cookies, which we baked successively on the same rack in the oven. We baked one batch on our favorite (rimless) cookie sheet and the other on our favorite rimmed baking pan.

Both batches came out perfectly pale golden. However, the cookies baked on the rimless pan browned more quickly and finished baking several minutes before those on the rimmed pan. The discrepancy makes sense: Heat rises from the element at the bottom of the oven and circulates in currents to warm the entire chamber. A rimmed baking sheet’s raised edges block the hot-air currents, diverting them from the cookies to the top of the oven. A rimless baking sheet allows the hot air to immediately sweep over the cookies, which means quicker baking.

Bottom line: No need to rush out and buy a rimless sheet the next time you bake cookies. Just be aware of the type of baking sheet you’re using and the timing. We like to check on cookies a minute or two before the timer goes off, just to play it safe.

My instant-read thermometer is my key to perfectly cooked food. How do I calibrate it?

If you have a dial-face thermometer, just immerse the thermometer in a slurry of ice water (boiling temperature calibration is not necessary), being careful not to touch the container and, using a pair of needle-nose pliers, adjust the screw on the underside of the dial face until it reads 32 degrees.

For instant-read thermometers, use this technique.

I don't own a fat separator. How else can I skim fat from my pan drippings, gravies, stocks, and soups?

If you don’t have a fat separator, we advise using a 1- to 2-ounce cooking spoon to skim the fat from the surface after it’s settled.

You can also use a baster. Plunge the tip beneath the fat and draw the liquid into the baster, then deposit the defatted liquid in another container.

Both of these tedious methods work, but an inexpensive fat separator is the best tool for the job.

 
America's Test Kitchen