Cook's Illustrated

Holiday Baking Essentials

MOUSSE CAKE

Need lots of help baking cookies or making a spectacular dessert? We’ve assembled our very best recipes, equipment reviews, and taste tests.

The Cook’s Illustrated test kitchen is here to take the stress out of holiday baking. Browse through 18 years of foolproof recipes, reliable reviews, and honest taste tests. We’ve also included our very best tips and tricks to help your baked goods come out perfect every time. Whether you’re a novice baker or a pro, let us help you bake up memories your family and friends will remember for years to come.

Pies

Few things are more frustrating than having a rolled dough stick to the work surface. In the test kitchen, we have a multi-purpose tool that we use to slide underneath the sticky edges. And the best part is that our favorite model is only $8.

We prefer ceramic or metal pie weights to those old standbys, rice and beans. But if you don’t have either of those on hand, use this substitute.

An imperfect pie dough can be saved with a little last-minute tweaking. All you need to do is follow these steps.

Pastry doughs can loosely be categorized as “short” or “flaky.” Short is a term describing a dough’s tenderness and structure (think shortbread cookies), while flaky dough is characterized by the way it fractures into delicate shards of thin dough (think American-style pie crust).

Flakiness is achieved by creating distinct layers of fat in between layers of dough. There are two things that help you achieve this: proper mixing and this secret ingredient.

Cookies

When we substituted brown sugar for granulated sugar in our cookie recipe, we expected a deeper flavor and color, but we were really surprised by the dramatic change in texture. The cookies went from dry and crunchy to soft and chewy. This isn't the first time we noticed this phenomenon in the test kitchen. We wondered why brown sugar is often the secret to chewier cookies. As usual, it all came down to science.

We think most cookies are best when they’re still chewy, so we use these indicators to tell us when our cookies are ready to be taken out of the oven.

To keep your cookies separate, use this arrangement to give each of them extra space without severely limiting the number of cookies baked in a batch.

To find the best method for storing chewy cookies (which typically suffer more from age than crispy cookies), we baked three types—chocolate chip, molasses spice, and peanut butter—and stored them the following ways: in a zipper-lock bag with the air pressed out; in a zipper-lock bag with an apple slice; and in a zipper-lock bag with a slice of white sandwich bread thrown in. Only one method kept our cookies fresh.

Cakes

We called a dozen highly reputed local bakeries to ask their advice, and they were split right down the middle: Six of them favored serrated knives, and the other six use straight-edged blades. But they did all agree on two things that are guaranteed to make slicing easier.

We baked our Classic White Layer Cake in three placements: side by side on one rack; on two racks with one pan directly above the other; and on two racks with one pan on the top left of the oven and the other on the lower right. Only one placement produced evenly baked cakes.

Two months of making cheesecakes proved that cakes baked beyond a certain temperature almost always cracked. The best way to prevent cracking is to use this even-cooking technique and an instant-read thermometer. But there is a caveat: If you take the temperature of the cheesecake multiple times you can do more harm than good.

It’s hard to repair a cake that has torn or broken into pieces during removal, so proper preparation of the cake pan is essential to success. To figure out which preparation was best, we baked off a few dozen butter cakes, sponge cakes, and Bundt cakes to find a winning method that would get our cakes out of their pans in one piece.

Chocolate

Semisweet and bittersweet are made from unsweetened chocolate that is ground with sugar and then further refined. Since they’re about 50 percent sugar, they have less chocolate flavor than unsweetened, which has no added sugar. (Although individual brands may vary, bittersweet averages around 46 percent sugar by weight; semisweet is about 57 percent sugar.)

Each type of chocolate must have certain amounts of cocoa solids and cocoa butter to be considered “real” chocolate. Use this breakdown for a crash course in each type.

Melting chocolate can be a dangerous game. A heavy-bottomed skillet over a very low flame does the trick, but not every burner is capable of maintaining a low enough heat. Here are two melting techniques we’ve tested again and again and found to be foolproof.

Chocolate gets much of its flavor from highly sensitive, volatile compounds. But many of these compounds are driven away during chocolate’s manufacturing and cooking processes. Fortunately, there are measures you can take to preserve your chocolate’s flavor.

Some swaps are simple (bittersweet and semisweet chocolate), but most are more complicated. Review these guidelines before you substitute one kind of chocolate for another.

Baking Ingredients

We’ve all done it: Closed a bag of brown sugar, only to find it rock hard next time we went to use it. When brown sugar comes into contact with air, the moisture in the sugar evaporates, which causes the sugar to lump together.

You can prevent this by storing brown sugar in a zipper-lock plastic bag or in a tightly covered plastic container. Keeping it in the refrigerator will also help keep it fresh and soft. But if the damage has already been done, don’t worry: There are ways to reverse the hardening of your brown sugar.

Sifting may be a chore, but it can also be important, at least in some recipes. To truly understand the effect that sifting has on flour and cocoa powder, we baked two cakes—one with sifted flour, one with unsifted. The results revealed to us just how important this step can be.

We've all seen those recipes (including our own) that specify what kind of milk to use: whole, low fat, nonfat. But, in the end, does it really matter? We decided to test whole milk (which is 3 1/2 percent fat), 1 percent milk, and skim milk (which must contain less than 1/2 percent fat) in three recipes: pancakes, yellow layer cake, and chocolate pudding. Each recipe originally called for whole milk. The results varied and provided guidelines for the kind of recipe in which milk type makes a difference.

The easiest way to soften butter is to put sticks on the countertop and forget about them for an hour or two. But what if you don’t want to wait? Easy, you throw the butter in the microwave and voilà—you’ve got a couple of nubs of butter floating in a pool of melted goo.

Well, like everything else, there’s a method to these things, and after many tests (and several pounds of butter), we found a foolproof way to produce perfectly softened butter in a hurry.

 
America's Test Kitchen