Chef's Knives, Innovative

Published March 1, 2007.

In search of an improved mousetrap, we tested seven knives with innovative designs.

Overview:

We ask a lot of our chef's knives in the test kitchen. We want one that's versatile enough to handle almost any cutting task, whether it's mincing delicate herbs or cutting through meat and bones. We want a sharp blade that slices easily, without requiring a lot of force. We want a comfortable handle that doesn't hurt our hands or get slippery when wet or greasy.

We've tested 30 knives in recent years, and we know what we like. But manufacturers have recently begun offering new designs that challenge many of our assumptions about the classic chef's knife. We've seen unusual handle angles and blades, ergonomic designs for reducing hand fatigue and improving grip, and a variety of other features that promise better handling and easier cutting. Would any of these prove to be a real improvement?

A good handle should virtually disappear in your grip, making the knife the oft-cited "extension of your hand." The knives in our lineup featured handles shaped like metal triangles or wedges, handles tilted upward, handles covered with… read more

We ask a lot of our chef's knives in the test kitchen. We want one that's versatile enough to handle almost any cutting task, whether it's mincing delicate herbs or cutting through meat and bones. We want a sharp blade that slices easily, without requiring a lot of force. We want a comfortable handle that doesn't hurt our hands or get slippery when wet or greasy.

We've tested 30 knives in recent years, and we know what we like. But manufacturers have recently begun offering new designs that challenge many of our assumptions about the classic chef's knife. We've seen unusual handle angles and blades, ergonomic designs for reducing hand fatigue and improving grip, and a variety of other features that promise better handling and easier cutting. Would any of these prove to be a real improvement?

A good handle should virtually disappear in your grip, making the knife the oft-cited "extension of your hand." The knives in our lineup featured handles shaped like metal triangles or wedges, handles tilted upward, handles covered with spongy plastic or pebbled polypropylene, and handles with ergonomic bumps and bulges. We found that metal handles became slippery when wet or greasy, as did textured polypropylene handles. The slick plastic grip was heavy and uncomfortable, making the knife feel "angular and awkward."

One knife we did like had a handle that rose in a 10-degree angle to keep knuckles clear of the cutting board. This provided leverage for hard cuts, but there were some complaints about the exaggerated rocking motion during mincing. A second innovative handle that really won testers over has a short wooden handle that arcs downward, with a pronounced bump on the belly. The metal bolster is cut away to help fingers grip the blade and mercifully extends over the sharp spine to protect the fingers. The wood did not become slippery, and testers reported that the knife felt natural and maneuverable as they worked. A nice touch: The bottom of the bolster stops 1/2 inch short of the knife's heel, allowing it to pass completely through a sharpening device.

Some blade innovations were also successful. Thin profile knives avoided the impact of wedge-shaped knives. While a wedge-like blade can be useful for jobs like splitting open a heavy squash, it can rip food and make slicing slower and

less precise.

Overall, while we found plenty to admire among the top-rated innovative knives in this test, we remain hard-pressed to pay a premium—sometimes as much as $175—for their innovations.

Methodology:

We tested nine chef’s knives by butchering whole chickens, chopping butternut squash, mincing parsley, and dicing onions. We also evaluated their comfort and user-friendliness based on feedback from a variety of testers: right- and left-handed cooks; skilled professionals and untrained home cooks; cooks with small hands and cooks with large hands. We rated sharpness and edge retention by cutting ordinary sheets of 8 1/2 by 11-inch paper before and after kitchen tests.

HANDLE

Knives that were comfortable, ?t securely, and resisted slipping in wet or greasy hands were preferred.

BLADE

Sharp, agile blades with suf?cient curvature were preferred.

KITCHEN TESTS

We cut up whole chickens, chopped butternut squash, minced parsley, and diced onions. Knives were assigned a score for each task, which were averaged to get the overall rating.

EDGE RETENTION

Knives that maintained a sharp edge after testing was completed were preferred. Testers appreciated the thin blade’s razor-sharpness and an enhanced feeling of control.

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  • Product Tested

    Results Key:

    Good ★ ★ ★ Fair ★ ★ Poor
  • Prices are subject to change.
  • Recommended - Winner

    Victorinox (formerly Victorinox Forschner) Fibrox 8-Inch Chef's Knife

    "There's a reason we have 20 or 30 of these in this kitchen," said a tester; others agreed, calling it "Old Faithful." They found it notably sharp, with "great maneuverability." In sum: "This is exactly what a knife is supposed to be."

    • Blade ★★★
    • Handle ★★★
    • Kitchen Tests ★★★
    • Edge Retention ★★★

    $24.95

    BUY NOW Amazon
  • Recommended

    Glestain Indented-Blade 8.2-Inch Gyutou (Chef's Knife)

    Testers appreciated the thin blade's razor-sharpness and an enhanced feeling of control. "Effortless cutting—the food jumps away," remarked one tester. The double row of hollows worked, with squash and potato slices falling cleaning from the blade.

    • Blade ★★★
    • Handle ★★★
    • Kitchen Tests ★★★
    • Edge Retention ★★★

    $157.50

    BUY NOW Amazon
  • Recommended

    Kershaw Shun 8.25-Inch Ken Onion Chef's Knife

    This "flashy looking" knife won points for its "extreme sharpness." A pronounced curve aided the rocking motion. Most testers found it "really comfy," but tester with largest hands complained about the "ergonomic bump" on the handle. Food didn't stick to the blade.

    • Blade ★★★
    • Handle ★★★
    • Kitchen Tests ★★★
    • Edge Retention ★★★

    $193.95

    BUY NOW Amazon
  • Recommended

    MAC Knives 8-Inch Chef's Knife, Superior

    This "lightweight," "sharp, thin" knife won raves for its "surgical" ability to slice easily through chicken bones and squash. Testers liked the "arced" handle, but there were a few complaints that the rounded tip made it harder to pierce food. "A good all-around knife" at a reasonable price.

    • Blade ★★★
    • Handle ★★★
    • Kitchen Tests ★★★
    • Edge Retention ★★★

    $59.95

    BUY NOW Amazon
  • Recommended

    Kershaw Shun 8-Inch Alton's Angle Chef's Knife

    Some testers disliked the angled handle, complaining that it forced a more "exaggerated rocking," while others liked the way it added leverage when cutting squash and bones. Everyone agreed that the blade "cuts beautifully" with "great control," splitting hard squash "like butter."

    • Blade ★★★
    • Handle ★★
    • Kitchen Tests ★★★
    • Edge Retention ★★★

    DISCONTINUED

  • Recommended with Reservations

    Sanelli 9.5-Inch Premana Professional Cook's Knife

    Testers liked the slightly squishy handle, saying "it would be great if it were attached to one of these fancy pants blades." The lightweight blade did well with onions and parsley but on harder tasks felt "cheap" and "cumbersome" and "had trouble getting through bones."

    • Blade ★★★
    • Handle ★★★
    • Kitchen Tests ★★
    • Edge Retention ★★

    $43.50

  • Recommended with Reservations

    Wüsthof Grand Prix II 8-Inch Cook's Knife

    This update performed worse than it's well-regarded predecessor. The redesigned handle became very slippery when hands were wet. "Looks more comfortable than it actually is," said one tester. Testers complained that "knife is heavy" and "handle is too long."

    • Blade ★★★
    • Handle ★★
    • Kitchen Tests ★★
    • Edge Retention ★★★

    $69.95

  • Recommended with Reservations

    Furi 8-Inch Cook's Knife with Coppertail, FX Forged

    According to one tester, this "heavier" knife "seems solid," but "I really had to push through the breast bone." It made "precision cuts" while dicing onion, but parsley seemed crushed. Testers with larger hands liked the handle more than did hose with smaller hands, but all complained about slipperiness when hands were wet or greasy.

    • Blade ★★★
    • Handle ★★
    • Kitchen Tests ★★
    • Edge Retention ★★★

    $89.95

  • Recommended with Reservations

    Chroma 8-Inch Chef's Knife, Type 301

    Testers were surprised that the "weird-looking" triangular metal handle felt "bizarrely comfortable" in the palm, but all disliked the metal "nub," which "goes exactly where my thumb wants to go and puts pressure on it." One said simply, "It hurts." The knife was "very sharp."

    • Blade ★★★
    • Handle ★★
    • Kitchen Tests ★★
    • Edge Retention ★★

    $88.95

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