Published August 1, 2012. From Cook's Country.
Why trust your beautiful baked pie to an unworthy serving tool?
A gorgeous pie can take hours to make—and be mangled in seconds if you cut it with the wrong tool. A pie server must be sharp enough to cut cleanly and agile enough to neatly slide under a fragile slice to lift and transport it intact. It’s been six years since we last tested pie servers, so we tried five priced from $6.99 to $21.14, including our previous favorite.
We baked dozens of pies and then turned to slicing and lifting. Even the dullest pie servers could slice through the creamy filling and single crusts of banana cream and custard apple pies, but multitextured Key lime pie called for more sharpness and precision. Servers with round, blunt tips smashed and shattered the flaky tops of double-crust pies and crushed pecan pie’s delicate sugar-nut scrim. We concluded that slim, sharp tips and edges (whether straight or serrated) were critical. Offset handles helped us navigate neatly under each slice, but we could make do with straight handles if the blade was quite flexible. For lifting and transporting slices to plates, broader blades offered security.
Our previous winner again led the pack. Though its tip was slightly blunter than ideal, that’s a small concession for all-around solid performance.