Published March 1, 2012. From Cook's Illustrated.
Do you really need a fancy gadget to do something you can accomplish with a simple ruler and a pizza wheel?
The time and finesse required to cut and weave strips of fragile dough scare off many people from attempting a lattice pie crust. Bakeware companies have stepped in with a variety of tools to help. We tried out four such gadgets, using them to shape the top crusts on peach pies. For comparison, we also used our tried-and-true method of measuring strips with a ruler and then cutting them out with a pizza wheel. Most of the specialty tools were flops: Dough got stuck around the wheels of a small roller-style device, ruining the pattern. One stamp-style cutter gave us a crude-looking lattice. Another had a delicate pattern but the blades didn’t cut all the way through the dough. The priciest, a multiwheel cutter from Paderno World Cuisine ($125) that can be adjusted to different widths, glided effortlessly over the rolled-out dough, cutting perfect strips that we then wove into a lattice. However, our ruler-and-pizza-wheel method works just as well, minus the hefty price.