Published April 1, 2006. From Cook's Country.
Can a $6 knife outperform a $30 competitor?
In the test kitchen, most of our tasks require one of three knives: a chef’s knife, serrated knife, and paring knife. The paring knife is not just for “paring” tasks—peeling an apple or turnip, carving the rind off an orange, coring a tomato but also for jobs suited to a mini chef’s knife or a boning knife—dicing a shallot or slipping the blade into the nooks and crannies of a chicken thigh.
But there are dozens of versions with blades and handles in different sizes and shapes and made from different materials. Some are marketed for specific tasks such as trimming, fluting, mincing, and peeling round items, but most are designed to be “all-purpose.” Prices vary from a modest $5 plus change to a grand $50, which invites the obvious question for a home cook: Is the most expensive knife really 10 times better than the cheapest model? To find, out, we gathered a group of ten “all-purpose” knives and put them through their paces.
After pretesting knives with blades of various lengths, we decided to stick with those having blades measuring as close as possible to 3 1/2 inches, which we determined to be the most versatile size. We also decided to steer clear of knives with serrated edges because they cannot be honed with a steel or run through most home electric knife sharpeners.
Our next decision was whether to test knives with forged or stamped blades or to test both types. Forged blades, which are generally more expensive and considered to be of higher quality, are made by heating a crude piece of steel to more than 2,000 degrees Fahrenheit and beating it into the shape of a blade using a mold and a forging hammer. It is then ground down, tempered by repeated heating and cooling, sharpened, and finished in many, many time-consuming, labor-intensive, expensive steps. One sign that a knife has probably been forged is the presence of a bolster, a thick collar of metal between the blade and the handle. Stamping, on the other hand, is less expensive, starting with a large sheet of metal from which crude blades are cut out, much like cookie shapes are cut from rolled dough. The finishing steps are similar to those of forging.
In the final analysis, we decided to test knives across the range of price and quality. As a result, our final lineup forged, high-carbon stainless steel knives with ergonomically molded handles as well as inexpensive knives with stamped blades and handles made variously of plastic, wood, and rubber.