Published September 1, 2005.
We tested eight models of varying design, materials, and features—in the end, it was the shape that mattered.
A good rolling pin can qualify as a family heirloom. But if your grandmother's tried-and-true pin has not been passed down to your kitchen and you want to buy one, you have quite an array of choices. Should you buy a pin with a nonstick coating, one that is made of marble, or one with ergonomic handles? Could any one pin really make a difference in your baking? We tested eight models readily found in kitchen and hardware stores of varying design, materials, and features by rolling out three types of dough—delicate pie pastry (pâte brisée), sweet tart pastry (pâte sucré), and elastic pizza dough.
On our minds were leverage, maneuverability, effectiveness, and overall comfort and ease of use. And we were particularly interested in the versatility of these pins—whether they could perform equally well on all tasks. No one wants more than one pin in the kitchen. For all three doughs, we were looking for a fast, easy roll—one that allowed us to feel the dough and did not require application of too much pressure.
Almost immediately a favorite and a least favorite became evident. No matter the type of dough, testers universally loved the tapered pin and disliked the nonstick model, which they found too lightweight to be effective and most definitely not stick-free. After this discovery, the only question was to identify the best size.
